Hydro jet for clearing kitchen line

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I have been in plumbing hell for the last few months. One damn me$$ after another.
Now I ask your input on some procedure quoted to me by Plumber A as "Hydrojet". Supposed to clean around the interior pipe rather than snake a hole though it (my unscientific interpretation!).
Just checked with Plumber B who snaked my line in *Feb*. Clogged up in *Ju ly*. Plumber B snaked it again.
Two days later, had major work in bathroom done by Plumber A. Kitchen clog ged up again *5 days later.* I was afraid something got stuck in there fro m bathroom work by Plumber B. I've been letting kitchen water run into dri veway; afraid to investigate whose "fault" it is if anyone, and how to fix problem.
Called Plumber A. They said no chance anything stuck in line; they do not converge. Recommended Hydrojet. They haven't followed through as promised . End of THEM!
Called Plumber B (snaker). He said in 25 years he had rarelu of ever used Hydrojet. He is coming over to see. Says sometimes 2 snakings needed.
If a kitchen snake job can seize up IN A FEW DAYS doesn't that mean somethi ng is radically wrong? Esp. if it was snaked in Feb, then again in July? Normally over [censored] years, I've only had to have it snaked every few Y EARS!
Who is scamming me, if anybody?
Does anyone agree with Plumber B (snaker) that Hydrojet is not often needed ?
Sorry for the length, but I have family coming in 2 days and I don't want t hem to see mess in driveway.
Any input welcome.
HB
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On Wed, 9 Oct 2013 10:27:54 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson

All I can say is that I think I've seen hydro-jet done, for the sewer that runs near the road, from house to house (townhouses fwliw)
They have water sprays coming out from the center pointing in maybe 10 directions, and another sprray pointing fowards, that slowly propels the device in the other direction, or maybe they just reel it in.
They used this after the people at the top of the hill had trouble draining their sinks. The plumber said he found a fat log in the sewer, I guess made of fat that's liquid when the hot water is running in the sink and is much nearer to hard when it hits the cold water in the sewer. I think that's only happened once in tthe 30 years I've been here, but individual houses have probably had clogged drains.
I myself have never had a clogged drain in the 60 years I can remember, since I was 6 and lived with my parents and all the time I've lived on my own. Or even a toilet where the water level rose when I flushed it, let alone overflowed.
I don't let fat run into the kitchen sink. I pour it in a jar with a screw on lid, freeze it, and eventually throw it in the trash. I don't put anything but human waste and toilet paper (not Kleenex or anything like Kleenex) in the toilet. Toilet paper is designed to fall apart when wet. No other paper is. And aiui the so-called feminine cloth products that say on the package, just throw in the toilet, canNOT actually be thrown in the toilet or they clog the toilet up. And how much more so the "feminine" products that DON'T say they can be thrown in the toilet. No one does any of that here either.

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On Wednesday, October 9, 2013 10:50:28 AM UTC-7, micky wrote:

from bathroom work by Plumber B. I've been letting kitchen water run into driveway; afraid to investigate whose "fault" it is if anyone, and how to f ix problem.

sed.


? Normally over [censored] years, I've only had to have it snaked every fe w YEARS!

I don' either. I scrape it into the trash.
I pour it in a jar with a

I

Glad you mentioned that! Many families do throw those "wipes" into the toil et because the label says OK. Our City sentout a notice a while back to th at effect. DON'T!! So we fold it into paper towel or TP and put in bathroo m bin.
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On 10/9/2013 1:27 PM, Higgs Boson wrote:

unscientific interpretation!).

later.* I was afraid something got stuck in there from bathroom work by Plumber B. I've been letting kitchen water run into driveway; afraid to investigate whose "fault" it is if anyone, and how to fix problem.

Hydrojet. They haven't followed through as promised.

over to see. Says sometimes 2 snakings needed.

if it was snaked in Feb, then again in July? Normally over [censored] years, I've only had to have it snaked every few YEARS!

driveway.

Since you've had a couple snake jobs done, did you watch what was done? I'd think to do my own small hand snake job. Follow up with a load of crystal Drano to try and dissolve some of the grease and hair that often is found in drains.
Yes, that does sound rough.
. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .
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Higgs Boson wrote:

Galvanized drain pipes? If so, those things can get deposits where a snake won't work. I actually took a section apart and heated with a cutting torch to remove the minerals.
I know a snake can open the minerals somewhat, but they will clog right back up.
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You're probably a lot smarter than me, but don't make the mistake I recently did.
The kitchen sink blocked up.
And I stupidly used a plunger. Well, I've used one before on toilets and sinks, and usually there's no problem.
But this is our first house with a dishwasher, and it did not occur to me until too late these lines all connect. Doh, how else is the dishwasher going to drain? So when I plunged the sink, I forced all that cr@p into the dishwasher.
I ended up removing the trap and snaking it.
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On Wednesday, October 9, 2013 1:31:09 PM UTC-7, TimR wrote:

I DID just exactly that! Plunger.
Whether it contributed to Feb or to July snaking, I have no way to tell.
Earlier, I had the undersink pipe replaced because of a pinhole leak (very old pipe) so I don't think those operations were connected.
HB
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On Wednesday, October 9, 2013 12:06:23 PM UTC-7, Curly Fikes wrote:

Plumber A said it was not metal, judging from where I unscrewed nut. But I don't remember having non-metal installed. I still think it's the old, old, old metal. Wish someone would tell me the truth.
Plumber A intimated that in the long run I'd have to have 50' of pipe replaced. 2K+.

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On 10/9/2013 6:58 PM, Higgs Boson wrote:

You can buy an electric drain reamer from HF less than that cost.
. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .
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On Wed, 9 Oct 2013 18:50:03 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson

Maybe they're just at the limit of their knowledge, that is beyond the limit. I think some plumbers are self-trained. After all, how complicated could plumbing be! Just a bunch of pipes. You don't need book-learnin' to understand pipes. I don't know if you can get a license with that attitude and only self-training. I also don't know if your guy has a license.
In the example I gave in the other post, he had done good work for them before too. And I guess he was right that a pipe was clogged, but there are only two counties around here, where this guy worked and he should have known what the county plumbing folk will do for a homeowner.
People rationalize their misbehaviour, that is, they convince themselves they're not misbehaving. Just look at Congress, one or both parties are misbehaving but no one thinks his party is.
S

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On Thursday, October 10, 2013 3:45:33 AM UTC-7, micky wrote:

I always check. He has a licence # on his truck & Web site. It's Mr. Spee dy, a franchise, but come to think of it, consumers are supposed to check w ith the licensing bureau to see if it's current. The friend who referred him is married to architect/contractor who has used him on big jobs. So I assume his bona fides are in order. But I cannot forgive tradespeople who just don't bother to call -- which is by now more the rule than the excepti on.
I am righteously ticked off at Plumber A. His man took $39.95 from me just to come out and look at it. He said he would be back later that day with Hydrojet. Never came. I called; they said they would put boss on the phone. Never ha ppened.
Here's how I feel: I had a verbal contract with this outfit that the $39.9 5 would go against final cost of job. I'm going to write to the Calif lice nsing bureau to file a complaint and demand a refund for breach of contract .
HB

Er..let's not get into Congress and gerrymandering...I'm upset enuff w/plum bing!

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On Thu, 10 Oct 2013 13:09:19 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson

I woudl call the company first. They're not going to want to give the money back, and they can't apply it to the hydrojet if you do that somewhere else, but they can't expect to apply it if they never came back or called back.
I know you called them once already when they didnt' come back, but that was for something different. I would call them about the refund and give them a chance before dragging their name through the mud at the bureau. it will take 5 minutes. If he's not there, I'd leave a complete message.

Good point.

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On Thursday, October 10, 2013 1:36:09 PM UTC-7, micky wrote:

k with the licensing bureau to see if it's current. The friend who referr ed him is married to architect/contractor who has used him on big jobs. So I assume his bona fides are in order. But I cannot forgive tradespeople w ho just don't bother to call -- which is by now more the rule than the exce ption.

th Hydrojet.

icensing bureau to file a complaint and demand a refund for breach of contr act.

You're right - sigh! It's just that I am terrible on the phone, but much b etter in writing. I guess I'll have to write them a "polite" letter reques ting the refund because contract not completed. If they don't repay me, th en I'll go to the Licensing Board.
There is just NO excuse for blowing me off like that, especially when it wa s framed as a very urgent matter. Now my family members will be exposed to that filthy mess in the driveway...!

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On Thu, 10 Oct 2013 13:48:25 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson

A letter or email is fine (You can call the office and the secretary or anyone who answers will most likely give you their email address. It might be on the bill. If this were a legally required communication, I'd push for a letter, but it's not.)
"Polite" means no profanity, no personal insults (though you can call the work below par, etc. ) and no threats to kill them or set fire to their trucks. It doesn't mean you have to be sappy. It doesn't have to be angry either, although maybe a little anger wouldn't hurt, enough to make them believe your serious about going to the licensing board. (A lot of people cool off and never do what they threaten.)
What are the favorite words some columnist recommended? Something like disappointed and dismayed. But I think that was just when a box of food wasn't very good, not when they've failed to come back or call back. That might deserve harsher words.

That's the attitude, but between you and me, can't you wash that away witht he garden hose. It's been raining here for 3 days.

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On 10/9/2013 8:20 PM, Curly Fikes wrote:

They also decay over time, which can lead to a section of the pipe collapsing and thus causing a blockage. Which is what happened with my previous kitchen drain line.

Mine is almost that long. The kitchen sink is on the opposite end of the house from the main waste line. The drain line runs at a slight angle from the sink, down the basement wall, underneath the basement floor to about eight feet from the opposite wall, where it joins the main waste pipe. A section of the old galvanized pipe rotted away away about twelve feet from where it started its run underneath the cement slab. I ended up having the entire kitchen waste line replaced. Since it involved cutting a thirty-foot trench in the basement floor to lay a new line, it was quite expensive, somewhere between $3-$4K ten years ago. The plumbers assured me that opening the floor would be an eight-hour job. I knew better; my dad had (over)built the house himself. It took over three days for them just to cut the trench. In total, the better part of a week on the whole job, hence the expense. (Not including the time I took off from work to help them. I just wanted to get it over and done with asap.)
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Higgs,
What maintenance do you do to your plumbing? How many people are in your household?
Dave M.
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On Wednesday, October 9, 2013 1:36:04 PM UTC-7, David L. Martel wrote:

Very (*&^%#$%^^) little maintenance (not sure I understand what that involvers?) We only respond to emergencies. We DO take GREAT care to not put grease down sink, and in bathroom, to not put anything but paper and poop in toilet.
HB Two in household
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Higgs,
One of the best bits of advice that I found on this group was that plumbing needs maintenance. Glop sticks to pipes. If you don't remove the glop, the pipes clog and it's snake time. So let's deal with the glop. There are lots of products out there designed for this. Your hardware store will stock a bunch. Drano is cheap. These things are caustic so be careful. Clean your pipes every month. Even cheaper is hot water. Once again a trick from this newsgroup. Set 2 large pots of water on the stove to boil. Run the hot water in the sink you plan to clear. When the water is boiling turn off the running water and pour the boiling water down the drain. Do each sink and tub about once a month. Do NOT do the boiling water trick to your toilet, it may crack. I use this and it has worked very well for me. 4 gallons of really hot water dissolves the glop and moves the glop down the line.
Dave M.
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On Thu, 10 Oct 2013 08:27:51 -0400, "David L. Martel"

My mother had never used Drano or anything like it, in her life. When she was old she moved to an apartment. When she away, the tenants on the floor above poured Drano in their kitchen sink and it backed up into my mother's, eating holes almost clear through the bottom of the dutch oven she liked so much. I don't think any went clear through, but the metal was thin in many places, and that would make hot spots, undoing the purpose of the dutch oven.

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On Thursday, October 10, 2013 1:15:56 PM UTC-7, micky wrote:

HOWEVER, you suggest products such as Drano. I have been told more than once that plumbers LOVE to have you use this stuff because it makes work for them. So I hadn't been using it for maintenance.
What were my interlocutors talking about? Can you clarify? TIA
HB
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