clearing clogged sink drain

You may be able to wiggle it around the bend but they are really made for sanitary fittings with a sweep type turn.

Have you ruled out using a chemical drain opener? At least for soap/hair clogs I've found that the thick Drano Max gel (comes in a yellow plastic container - Home Depot has it) often works wonders when other types of chemical openers (not the acid ones) fail. I've used the Drano product with success on completely plugged bathroom sink and tub drains. Sincerely,

I would use a rotating, power, spring style snake. Used properly, that should make it past the T.

What kind of material is the pipe made from? If galvanized pipe, it could be rusted closed, in that case, you will probably have to bite the bullet and replace some piping.

I tried twice. After the trap there is a bend (behind the a/c ducts) that it does go around before it gets to the T.

Don.

As I wrote I have not. The stop is 5 feet in. Some chemical will be lost in the trap. The drain pipe is 1-1/2". Will it even make it down to the blockage?

Don.

Try taping over the overflow holes in the sink. It has worked for me. A last resort would pouring a gallon of bleach down the drain and let it sit all night and then pour boiling water down the drain.

There are pressure solutions but I would remove the trap before I did it if it is that thin plastic compression stuff.

Would tape really hold? The next problem is the sink is very small. I regular toilet plunger is too big. Possibly something like:

Then a correction. It is an S trap, not a P trap. If I remove the middle piece, I have an open end facing downwards. But I don't know how to push air into it.

Don.

I used this:

Is there something different?

Is it galvanized. To replace would require removing a/c ductwork. See:

That looks like 2" pipe. Awfully wide to have a nearly 100% blockage.

Don.

This is the trap:

I don't follow about the thin compression stuff.

Don.

These days that trap would all be thin wall plastic. Do you have a compressor? You could use water pressure but that could get messy. I would try to make an adapter that connects to the trap (disconnected from the tail piece from the sink) and see if you can blow the clog on down the line. That galvanized will tolerate the pressure and once it gets to the cast iron it should go away. If you go that way, it is good you have not used any drain cleaner because it may come back at you.

I have seen 2" galvanized pipes rust up over time, especially if people have been using chemical drain cleaners in them. As most new homes have been using PVC drain pipes for 30 - 40 years, odds are your pipes are older than that?

As for the snake, this is the type of tool to which I an referring:

They can be rented at a reasonable price. However, why not just call a drain cleaning company. If the pipe isn't destroyed, around here they will come out and clear your drain for $60.

If the pipe is destroyed, you will have to bite the bullet and replace it, preferably with PVC.

That should work fine. The trick is to push hard when it stops and get more coil in there. Keep it spinning slowly until it finds the outlet, whereupon you'll feel it release the pressure you're applying. I've got the basic setup in my bathroom (plugged T) and I snaked it using the type of snake you have, except it's hand-cranked.

The house is 1892. But that bathroom was added later. Possibly in the

I do have a couple rental places down the hill. This is what is at the place where I have an account:

That is useful advice. I had been thinking of calling the local plumber, but the drain cleaning people are cheaper and could be even better for such a job.

And I will have to dismantle the a/c ductwork.

Don.

I do not.

When I was at Harbor Freight for my "No Purchase Required" gift of the day, the cashier suggested a digital inspection camera. But looking at the one on their website ($80 - 20% = $64) I see the cable is not long enough, nor would it make it around a corner.

I've thought about blowing up the opened S-trap, but I don't see how to make an attachment. I don't have a machine shop. Though probably in March I will get the drill press at my mom's and bring it to my place. Not owing a car limits moving things around.

Don.

My money is on the pipe being rusted shut, but for your sake, I hope not.

I own a power, rotary snake. It made more sense to buy one than to keep on renting when I considered all of the different houses in the extended family.

Ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

Very impressive! It would be a fun tool to have. I do need to place an order with Amazon. The mirror attachment might get me to look down the T. Though I have to get it to also go around a bend somewhere.

I see several similar to pick from.

Looks impressive, but I see you have to request a quote and buy direct. I do want something to periodically (like every few years) to keep the kitchen drain free of grease.

Don.

I have a sink that is similar, with 2 "openings" on the bottom (that I think are more intended to be used for "mounting posts" (from the floor) than for "overflow".

A little off-topic, but is there anything that works to "plug" the holes so a plunger can be used on the sink (without water coming out)...?

I have a similar problem. I would love to know what you found out.