How do I eliminate Dandelion weeds from my lawn?

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Short of harvesting them for wine, what are some good methods you've used for exterminating (eliminating) those peksy dandelion weeds?
http://tinyurl.com/24sa9
thanks, mikey
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I've had real good results with Scots, weed&feed Bonus S. Put it down twice about 2 months apart and not a Dandelion left.

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Ditto. Conscientious care of your lawn - I personally follow the Scotts plan - will take care of the problem. The method of squirting each plant is great if you have only a few; if your lawn looks like our neighbor's lawn, nothing short of an atomic weapon will do it.
- Wm
--
William Morris
Product Development, Seritas LLC
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William Morris wrote:

I prefer to spray each plant because it doesn't use nearly as many pounds of herbicide per acre as using "weed 'n' feed" granules or a hose-on sprayer. If my lawn was huge, or if it looked like your neighbor's lawn, I would use one of my pump-up sprayers instead of a squirt bottle.
-Bob
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I agree that it is better to target the problem than to use indiscriminate scorched-earth techniques. My yard is not the smallest, but I use a squirt bottle rather than a pump sprayer because it prevents me from killing the grass by using too much. This is a good middle ground between those who won't use any synthetic chemicals ever, and those who advocate the same methods Saddam used against the Kurds.
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He should be glad it's not bindweed. The chemical needed to eradicate a large crop of that plant basically puts your entire lawn out of commission for a season or two.
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mikey wrote:

I use a spray bottle and 2,4-d herbicide. Walk around the yard and squirt each thistle and dandelion in the spring (prefereably when they first come up) and that's usually good for the entire year.
Best regards, Bob
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zxcvbob wrote:

What is "2,4-d herbicide" ? Can you recomend a brand name?
I've thrown down one application of weed-n-feed. Am hesitant to do another since it has only been one week. I've been hand-weeding for a few days now. Seems like there are more weeds now than when I started.
I'd bet my lawn needs more health, perhaps a higher mower setting. And I think it needs more seeds. I have some bare spots from not watering enough last year.
thanks for the replies. mikey.
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2,4-d is one of the nastier herbicides. In fact I thought it had been banned.
Read some of the other posts. The best way to get rid of weeds is to get control of your lawn - get the weeds out by hand and keep them out with regular mowing and hand-weeding. I've had better results with this than with any chemicals.
Mike
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wrote:

It was 2,4,5-T (aka "Agent Orange") that was banned. 2,4-D has not been shown to be dangerous. However, the solid form is inefficient because the weeds must aborb the herbicide through their leaves. So, you have to wet the lawn with a hose, apply the Weed-'n-Feed, and then hope it doesn't rain for a few days. I use the Bonide liquid mix in a garden pump sprayer. This allows targeted application of a liquid form minimizes amount used.
That being said, there are few things on this Earth as satifying as using the Weed Popper.
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William W. Plummer wrote:

Are you speaking of this: http://tinyurl.com/2g7yj
or this: http://tinyurl.com/3yerw
If the second item, how much of my grass will it rip up around the weed site?
I've been using the first item with some success, but with as many weeds as I have it sure seems tedious!
thanks again, mikey.
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snipped-for-privacy@alum.mit.edu says...

A better method is to apply the weed-n-feed first thing in the morning while there is dew on the grass (IIRC, most brands recommend this on the label). The dew wets the leaves of the weeds more thoroughly than watering, and maximizes the amount of herbicide that 'sticks' to the leaves.
Regards,
George Wenzel
--
George Wenzel, B.A. (Criminology)
E-mail: snipped-for-privacy@recursor.invalid
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mikey wrote:

Weed-B-Gone is one, but it's also in (for example) Ace-branded weed products. Check the label.

There's a contingent here who really dump on the weed-n-feed approach. I don't think it's out of place for someone who is trying to get a problem under control. Your lawn probably needs both fertilizer AND weed control if you have a problem this bad, and some of both is better than nothing.
As you get more in tune with your lawn you can refine your methods.
In any case, ONE WEEK is far too soon to expect results. The "weed" part you put down will suppress new growth and small plants but will have little effect on the maturing dandelions ready to sprout their glorious yellow flowers (the pests). You'll still need to go around pulling those (by the roots, but you know that), or at least using a spot sprayer. It will also prevent the seeds from germinating in high numbers, over time. If you followed the instructions on the package, likely you used about half of what you need and will apply again in 30 days' time, which will be a sucker punch for whatever got through the first application.
Don't expect miracle results this year. You're merely getting the problem under control. Next year, you'll see many fewer dandelions and healthier grass, and you may be able to deal with it with a spot spray or pulling approach. If it's still pretty daunting go with another round of weed'n'feed. It may take two to five years of diligent maintenance to get rid of every last dandelion, though! Think long-term.

Almost any lawn can be improved. Weeds will be a smaller problem in healthy lawns. It's often said that the biggest problem is people just mowing too short. Two inches should probably be a MINIMUM, because lower cutting just damages the grass and cuts off too much of the fresh growth. (Different varieties of grass have different comfort heights, too.) Taller grass lets less light get to the weeds, too, and the cuttings (if you use a mulcher mower) create a good nitrogen-rich natural fertilizer at the root level.
Reseeding is best done in the fall, of course, but there's no reason you can't using a patch approach in spring or early summer. You just have to really baby those patches -- water twice daily at first, for instance, and reduce that when you see sprouts to daily, then to every couple of days (depending on precipitation). Make sure you till in some starter fertilizer in the larger bare spots before seeding.
Bare spots from not watering probably mean you need a hardier, sunny-type grass in those areas. A healthy lawn can do just fine most all summer with minimal watering -- it's called going dormant, and is the natural summer state of grass. When you vigorously water it early in the season, though, it comes to expect that all summer and doesn't put down a deep enough root system. Are you *deep* watering or just sprinkling?
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Here??? In *this* newsgroup?

...and since weed killers are systemic (the plants slurp them up), you don't want the juice on your hands. This is remedied by licking your fingers when you're done working.
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Doug Kanter wrote:

No need to be a jerk. Or is that something you can't avoid?
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Unless people begin posting their age here, we must assume that they are young and have missed 40+ years' worth of legislative and research-related shenanigans on the part of the chemical industry. The result is that nobody knows ANYTHING decisive or accurate about the effects of chemicals on humans. I will do ANYTHING to raise questions in peoples' minds about the safety of what's sold for lawn/garden purposes.
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Doug Kanter wrote:

I didn't tell you to shut up. I didn't say anything about you at all. I just disagreed with you.
Now tell me why that's a problem for you?
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You said: "No need to be a jerk. Or is that something you can't avoid?"
That doesn't fit with: "I didn't say anything about you at all."
If you don't see the disconnect....oh well.
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Doug Kanter wrote:

If you've already forgotten the actual BEING a jerk, to which I was then responding, you're more of a clueless nuisance than I thought.
I shall waste no more of my time on you.
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Then, you must believe that enough valid research exists for consumers to consider lawn chemicals as "proven safe". Right? Good. Go find the research.
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