Yes and know. Applying any new finish that does not block as badly will
take care of it. Different types of finishes and different brands and
product lines have different blocking characteristics. Next time make sure
you get a finish that has the right properties for the intended use.
Blocking ,do you mean stains ? If it is for kitchen cabinets reprime
with the right primer. after it cures . But Latex on kitchen cabinets
is not a great idea , it is absorbetave and more reactive to hand oils.
It will not last as long. Ben Moore Enamel Underbody , sand 220g and Ben
Moore Satin Impervo with Penetrol. or spray can it. Let it cure out
Blocking as it when two painted surfaces sticking together. In my case, it
would be the cabinet door or drawer sticking to the facing. Yeah, I
realized that's another drawback of latex, esp if I'm using satin sheen
latex. I should at least go with a semi-gloss for better block resistance.
I'm considering using lacquer or latex+floetrol. And hopefully, the
protective clear topcoat would further reduce the blocking problem.
1. Use a high quality paint meant for kitchen use. These are usually
denoted by "scrubable" or "washable" in the type.
2. Latex paint typically takes two weeks to fully cure. They dry in about
half a day.
3. I'm not so sure applying a transparent topcoat to incompletely cured
latex paint is such a good idea.
4. Use a waterborne clearcoat if you want to topcoat. It imparts very
little yellow, unlike varnish or polyurethane. The clearcoat will protect
the color coat and make any future repairs easier.
Thx for your responses. I've been getting a lot of help from people in this
forum. I think I'm finally heading in the right direction. A few people
suggested using solvent-based product to get a professional look.
Unfortunatley, I just don't have the kind of equipment (explosion tight
spray booth, "Mickey Mouse" mask and cleaning system for the spray gun) to
do that. I have to stick with waterborne product. And after doing a little
of research, I found there're a lot more selection for water-based products
I have just finished priming the first coat. I'm now trying to correct some
of the priming mistakes (See the "How to Correct Priming Mistakes on Oak?"
See inline (below) for the rest of the reply....
I'm trying to color match the Ultima Spray Lacquer made by Target
(http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/targetcoatings.htm ). It's a
waterbased product => easy clean up :). People seem to think that lacquer
is easier to work with (gives smoother finish) than latex/acrylic paint.
I'm also hoping that lacquer would eliminate blocking.
Probably not. I was going to let it cure for 1 week. Now that you
mentioned it, I should probably do 2 weeks.
Hm... What do you mean by waterborne clearcoat? Both varnish and
polyurethane come in waterborne formula too (I thought you mentioned that in
another thread also, or do you mean something else?). I found a few
promising clearcoat products...
1. "Euduro Wat-R-Based Poly Overprint" got rave reviews by Andy Charron
2. Homestead praises Fuhr claiming that its Urethane and Acrylic Varnish
are the best product out there period.
Fuhr's product line is somewhat confusing. There is Urethane, and
Acrylic/Urethane. What are the differences?
Clear shellac comes in spray cans, is non-toxic, doesn't yellow,
breathes, dries extremely fast, and is easily repairable. The
dewaxed variety, which is what is in the spray cans, can also be
overcoated with just about anything. This is good when you change
your mind about the color some day.
If you would try it over your latex on a piece of scrap you'd see that
I'm not kidding. <G>
Shellac is a universal barrier and is compatible with just about
anything, under or over it. Unfortunately, most trades people outside
of high-end woodworkers no longer have a clue about it.
DEWAXED shellac can be used under anything but isn't recommended in
the kitchen. Wendi, when you order the WB lacquer order some Fuhr gun
cleaner as well. Jeff Jewitt suggests acetone:water at 1:1 for
cleaning but I use the Fuhr first then the mix to clean.
On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 10:11:40 GMT, Bonehenge
In theory, someone that knows how to spray pigmented lacquer will be
able to do it faster than spraying latex paint. This is due to the solvents
in lacquer. The smoothness is a function of ability.
A waterborne clearcoat is just that. It could be a varnish, urethane,
or a lacquer. As long as it has water in it and is transparent, it fits the
One is a mixture and one isn't. They have different properties.
It sounds to me like you are getting way in over your head and will be
spending quite a bit of money. Perhaps learning how to brush paint without
leaving brush marks would be the cheapest and easiest solution?
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