May have to get a nailer in the future for a one house job. At that
location in another state there is no Harbor Freight outlet. May consider
buying it in advance.
The only time I used a nailer was the manual kind on some 3/4 T&G like 25
years ago. How do these work? I see they are air but include a "slugging
hammer" as the HF description calls it. I assume hitting the black button
with the hammer is what triggers the nail driven by air? I mean if the air
is driving the nail why do you need to "slug" it? 25 years ago the long
hours of bending and fully swing slugging to drive were bad enough. I can
imagine at 2x+ that age. I mean I'm pretty limber and conditioned but I
certainly prefer to work smarter, hence air, so what's with the slugging
Anyone have this particular tool? Pros and cons appreciated. Jams?, will it
use widely available nails/cleats like Bostitch?, fully drives fasteners?,
anything else? I have a pancake 150psi compressor which should be fine
since it states "Maximum air operating pressure: 100 PSI".
The reason you still use the hammer is to make sure the piece of flooring is
tight to the piece next to it though you don't have to hit it as hard..Never
used the HF one but for one house I'm sure it would be fine....Perhaps
I bought the cheap menards nailer, it jammed so I returned it for
bostich. HF is good for many things, but of you have any issue an
exchange wont be worth the trouble and would stop the job, you would
just go buy a new one to keep working. If you were going to put it to
continous use immediatly then it might be different, but let it sit
and the warranty could be lost by the time you use it.
Guess I could always check eBay. That's where I got my Porter Cable
roofing nailer. It was certified factory reconditioned and sold by that
authorized dealer. Came with full warranty of a new one. About half the
cost of new.
1. The nail is not driven directly by air - else you'd essentially have a
pellet gun. The nailer drives a piston which in turn drives the nail.
2. PSI is one of TWO necessary qualifications; the other is CFM (cubic feet
per minute). Your compressor might not be up to the task in that it can't
provide sufficient volume of air. Even the little tire compressors that plug
into the cigarette lighter could probably reach 100psi but obviously won't
work as a nail driver. If your compressor cannot provide sufficient volume,
you might drive one nail then have to wait for a couple of minutes for the
compressor to catch up.
3. If you're worried about jamming, dependability, etc., buy two. When you
finish the job, return one for a refund. My guess is that the tool will work
swell out of the box - and deficiencies it has will be because of
The pancake compressor I would assume sufficient. Works fine for me alone
on a roofing nailer. Maybe two pros on one at the same time might tax the
duty cycle. Also, if I recall when doing compressor research/education
prior to purchasing, SCFM is even a more accurate rating.
Unless you will have plenty of time in case there does become a problem,
I'd recommend renting while you're there rather than risking the HF
possibility of the particular one you get being trash; always a
crapshoot w/ HF ime.
As for interchangeability of fasteners, one would presume likely but
again, it's taking a chance unless/until you can get verification.
If you'll have time to swap it out if it isn't satisfactory and have
some other potential use down the road, sure go for it. Otherwise, if
you intend to do the job and be done, renting locally may be the smarter
$0.02, ymmv, etc., etc., ...
OBTW, the compressor should be plenty to run any nailer. You'll want to
start at 70-75 psi max and work your way up until you find the right
pressure setting for depth for the specific flooring/subfloor, of
course. Also, you don't indicate what you're laying; if it's 3/4" t&g
I'd consider the 2" mandatory.
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