I have a coupon to get this pretty cheap:
- posted
14 years ago
I have a coupon to get this pretty cheap:
If it handles flooring 1/32" over 3/4, it should handle 3/4 just fine.
Look at it this way, if it doesn't do the job and you have to rent for a day, you're still cheaper than buying a bostich pneumatic.
My problem is it will take me many days due to time constraints.
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How does this thing work? It uses air, but you still have to hit with a hammer?
Good grief, Stryped, don't you EVER think for yourself? If it will nail through 25/32" boards, why on earth do you suppose that it might *not* nail through 24/32" (3/4") boards???
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When you whack the nailer with the mallet the tongue is driven into the groove of the previous board and then the cleat is driven through the next tongue securing the new board to the floor. Air helps with the second part and gives a consistent depth of nailing with minimal splitting caused by an off-center blow or repeated blows.
Try downloading the product manual, it explains all.
Other things for your consideration...
It is also customary to face nail the first few 3-4 courses of planks. That is because you have to leave an expansion gap between them and the wall and the lateral force of the nailer would move them. If you provide a solid shim between them and the wall I guess they could be nailed through the tongue.
IMO, it is better to use screws for face "nailing" as they can be easily countersunk and filled with a face grain wood plug.
What you *don't* want is to wind up having to have a real narrow board as your last one; plan ahead, it may be better to skinny down the last 3-4 boards instead of needing to install one very narrow one.
I have one of these and just finished installing about 500sf of engineered flooring in the living room and entry. Worked GREAT! And it was almost as cheap as renting. My son previously used it to install solid oak flooring with no problems. We both used 2" staples.
As previously mentioned, the first and last two rows will probably need to be face nailed due to clearance problems.
Catwatcher
How does this thing work? It uses air, but you still have to hit with a hammer?
The hammer is the trigger. You hit with hammer, nail goes in.
Pneumatic means you don't have to hit as hard as manual.
Given the number and type of questions you're asking, I think I lot of research is in order.
I actually have a finish nailer air operated but have not used it in several years. I used it for basboards years back. Is it better to use this to face nail the first few boards or to go by hand?
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That is why I am asking the questions:
One thing I noticed in the directions it says: "The nailing machine MUST HAVE a protective foot attachment to prevent edge bruising and finish damage. Use one of the following: Stanley Bostich (multiple models with millifootkit Powernailer with nailershoe, etc."
Does the harbor freight one have what this is tlakign about? I am not sure what it means.
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It does not say anythign about a "protective foot attachment
It is referring to a plastic shoe to prevent damaging a prefinished floor. You will probably have to check it out in person to see. It does seem to have plastic strips under the base, which may be part of the system, but it should also have a plastic strip on the dropped edge that slams against the edge of each board. The better units like the Bostitch or Powernailer have an optional, large plastic shoe that snaps over the base.
Look at this Bostitch nailer, click to get a bigger picture, the shoe is that unattached plastic piece:
I've done it both ways. Using a Porter-Cable 15ga finish nailer with 2" nails leaves a slightly smaller hole to fill than using 6d finish nails.
I actually have a finish nailer air operated but have not used it in several years. I used it for basboards years back. Is it better to use this to face nail the first few boards or to go by hand?
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