removing baseboard without damage

I'm still trying to put all my electrical stuff to rights... part of that process is providing a few auxiliary grounds upstairs so that the previous renovation work that was wired with grounded Romex will in fact be properly grounded. I need to peel back some baseboard to do this. Unfortunately, one wall is thin wood paneling, not plaster. I started by trying to pull the baseboard there, as that's where I need to run the first wire. Apparently the baseboard is held on by nails that are stronger than your average finishing nail. I cut through the paint and managed to separate the top of the baseboard from the wall with a thick putty knife; that's where I'm stuck. The putty knife is not strong enough to pry it free; I haven't pulled it away from the wall far enough to try a pry bar, and a screwdriver mars the paneling. Any ideas? Should I just keep doing what I'm doing, then cut the nails with a hacksaw blade, or is there a tool that I ought to have that'd work for this? Am thinking maybe run to FLAPS and buy a gasket scraper?

In case it matters, this is a three piece baseboard - main baseboard is a 1x4 with a piece of molding on top and a quarter round at the floor. I really only want to get the top piece off as I'm just going to hide a

14 AWG ground wire behind it and nail it back on.

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel
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Locate the nails in the baseboard and use a good nail set punch to drive them all the way through the baseboard. When finished with your work nail the baseboard back with new nails in new positions, then putty the holes and paint.

Reply to
Pete C.

Not intended as a hijack, but what would you recommend for stained baseboard?

Reply to
mcp6453

I use a very thin, flat prybar that has an edge that is almost sharp like a knife and thickens to about 3/16" thick, made by Stanley. You push or hammer the sharp edge behind the baseboard and pry (sometimes with a wide putty knife behind it to prevent marring the wall). The baseboard should come loose either pulling the nails through it or pulling the nails out. Remove the nails by pulling them all through the board so that the finished surface is not damaged.

Reply to
EXT

Good answer!

Reply to
Oren

If the wood is soft enough to drive the nails through, that is a good solution. Back in stone age, we used a matched pair of the mini-size Stanley Wonder Bars (the little chrome ones), and some stiff carboard to protect the wall above. You have to keep them clean and sharp, almost chisel sharp. Get one bar started, move down a foot, get the second one started, pry a little on the first one, pull it loose and move down to position 3, lather, rinse, repeat. Goal is to pull the board and nail at the same time. Get one end started, and keep going back and forth till enough of the board is loose that you can pull on it. Other option, of course, is to just rip the top trim off and replace it, if you can find a modern profile that is a close enough match.

Reply to
aemeijers

Wonder bar from Stanley... it's my go too tool for trim and baseboard removal.

Reply to
Oren

I use a bent pole scraper like this one to get started:

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It is stiff and starts the pry-off. Then I place a metal putty knife on the wall/paneling behind whatever I am using to pry it further (such as a screwdriver or pry bar). The metal putty knife protects the paneling from being dented/damaged by the prying device.

Or, to cut nails, you could try a MultiMax with a metal cutting blade -- again, placing a putty knife or square metal trowel over the paneling to prevent damaging it while cutting.

Reply to
Jay-T

I use a putty knife to protect the wall, then use another tool such as a prybar to gently lift off the trim. Try a few putty knives and pry bars until you get one just right. Patience will help you from damaging the trim/wall. With damage you will be creating another job so be careful. If there is caulk, remove that first. I use a 7-in-1 tool (a snazzy putty knife) to remove trim.

Reply to
Phisherman

Same process and use a good color matched putty.

Reply to
Pete C.

Nate Nagel wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news2.newsguy.com:

You've got many good suggestions to try Nate. I'm gonna guess that if you do get one all the way out that it's a ringed nail and that's why it's tough and/or it's very long and/or you have some wood back there that's old and hard as a rock.

Paneling nails are usually (always?) ringed.

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Reply to
Red Green

Try a Mason't spatula. Masonry tools are quite strong. Or one of the S shaped pry bars, with thins ends. Not a construction bar, but a smaller version; like in the 17" range. Hope I"ve made sense out of that. It's what I've used for that kind of job and others like it.

Twayne

Reply to
Twayne

The wonder bars have saved me several times

Reply to
hrhofmann

I have a steel bar. It is 1/4" x 1 1/4" or so and maybe 2 1/2' long, with the last 6 inches bent maybe 45 degrees. I pry the baseboard out enough to slip the bent end behind it. Then I push the other end to the side, causing the bar to twist behind the board, prying it out. It's a really good tool for this job. Very powerful, and it focuses the force evenly right at the nail, minimizing damage.

Reply to
Bob F

I like the Shark pry bar.

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's got a wide whale-tail that's thin and gently curved. Does an excellent job of getting behind trim without damaging it. As others have noted, use something to protect the wall regardless of what type of pry bar you use.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

A trim pry bar

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Available at all the big box stores.

Reply to
homer

You sound experienced enough to know you should pry gradually along the length of the part so it doesn't break in the middle. I've used pry bars with a piece of wood behind it to protect the adjacent surface and then pry against that. If you tap the baseboard back on gently with a cushioned mallet, perhaps the nails will be visible from the front. I can't imagine taking it off without some damage to the finish, esp. around nail holes. Could there be glue or caulk between the separate strips that is holding fast?

Reply to
norminn

Right. I've got that tool and it does what it's supposed to do. However, I bought mine at HF for $4 instead of the $14.00 that Amazon wants (discounted from $27.00).

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Reply to
HeyBub

Basically, it can't be done. The main thing you can do to help is cut the caulk bead if there is one. Then just carefully remove the trim. Use a 3" squar of thin plywood or laminate to put under your pry bar to protect the drywall from dimpling. If a nail wants to go through the baseboard rather than come out, let it and then pull it. Watch out for pipes and mark on reinatall so you don't puncture any.

HTH

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

I just remembered all of the baseboards I have seen (including my present home) that have caulk along the baseboard/flooring joint. Perhaps running a sharp blade along the base will free it up.

Reply to
norminn

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