Also for many repairs on the cars more advanced systems,
the dealer has computer eqpt that reads out and diagnosis
more malfunctions that is specific to those cars. The independent
shop has the basic eqpt that can read out engine codes for
example, but the ones dealers have can read out info down
to systems like the AC.
Around here, NJ, there used to be a substantial difference
in labor rates that made it advantageous for me to go to
a local foreign car place that was good instead of the MB
dealer. The place was good, but now it's gotten to the
point that their labor rates are so close to the dealer that
I'm not sure it's worth it. And while I've had them save me
money in the past by using non MB parts, recently a
friend took his BMW their and all the parts on the bill
were listed by BMW part # and had prices about the
same as the dealer. So, I've kind of come to the conclusion
that at least with this shop, you might as well take it to
the stealership because it's going to be almost the same
price and presumably the stealership mechanics see
more of the same car, same problems, better computer
diagnostics, training, etc. Which could allow them to
fix it faster, better, etc.
There are probably other shops here with better rates,
but it's always hard to find ones that are good, that you
trust, etc. The one mentioned above was so successful
they expanded, have plenty of business and adjusted their
rates accordingly. I don't know what rates you guys are
seeing, but last time I was at BMW here in NJ they are
Be aware that, at a dealership, the parts bucket is not attached to the
labor bucket. That is, a factory authorized dealership shop is more than
happy to install parts you provide.
A personal example is a quote from my friendly Chevrolet dealership to
replace the A/C compressor. Eight-hundred dollars and change. I bought the
compressor over the internet for less than $200 and had the dealership
install it, recharge the system, blah-blah-blah, for another $179.
Save more than half, I did. That was FOUR years ago and the A/C system is
still doing fine.
Many dealerships, as well as independents, will NOT install owner
supplied parts - and if they do there is NO WARRANTY from the
installer. When I worked as a mechanic we got way too many defective
or wrong parts supplied by owners so we just stopped installing owner
supplied parts PERIOD. The owners were not happy paying my time to
remove the old part, attempt to install the new one, and then have to
re-install the old one because the new one was either wrong, damaged,
or just plain no good.
On Oct 13, 4:26 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
It varies. It's certainly within their rights not to install owner
supplied parts. And there certainly is good reason for them
to not want to get involved with that. For the amount of
business they generate, I could imagine it could cause more
trouble than it's worth. Even if they don't warranty the parts,
the customer can come back bitching, taking them to
small claims, etc saying it's not the parts that were bad,
it's how they were installed.
But I have had a dealer do it. An example is when
I bought after market brake pads to do the front brakes
on the BMW. I did one side and when I went to
do the other side, I discovered that the
CV boot was torn. I wasn't going to fix that, so I took it to the
dealer together with the pads and wear sensors and they did
the work, no issues.
That situation was unusual though. If I just called them up
and said I wanted the pads replaced and I would supply them,
I don't know what they would say. It would be interesting to
hear others experiences with this.
You're correct, of course and I painted with too broad a brush when I
implied that all dealerships will countenance all owner-supplied parts.
While the facts were wrong, the narrative was correct. You may be able to
save bags of money by inquiring of the dealership's service department what
its policy might be in this regard.
To bring this back to the vicinity of a fuel pump, my dealership wanted
north of $500 to replace the fuel sensor on my pickup. Attempting to drop
the tank myself, I rapidly discovered why the charge was so ridiculous -
it's at least a 200-curseword job to drop the tank on my little S10 pickup.
Fortunately, I have an oak tree with a very large branch overhanging the
I bought a one-ton chain-lift from Harbor Freight for $45 and about $20
worth of cable and clamps from Home Depot. Removing eight (six? I forget)
bolts holding the bed of my pickup, and disconnecting the license plate
light, I was able, with suitable balancing, to lift the bed smooth off the
truck by about three feet. Enough to remove the fuel sensor.
Removing the fuel sensor and replacing it with a $5 one scored off Ebay was
Lowering the bed and bolting it back was also straightforward.
I sold the chain-lift on Craigslist for $50(!).
All in all, I expended less than 20 cursewords on the alternate solution.
On Sat, 13 Oct 2012 05:47:23 -0700 (PDT), " email@example.com"
Had a similar situation with a 1 year old Olds. Something shorted, be
it the battery or alternator, but both were bad and the car died
Funny thing is, I was meeting someone at a toll road exit. "While
waiting, a tow truck went by and I remarked to my wife about the gaudy
color scheme and we both chuckled about it. Well, an hour later, I
needed to be towed and . . . . . .
Is that because you live in a place where it's 40 degrees below zero in
the winter? The "better way" for me was to move to where it's 74 degrees
year round. Why live the old-fashioned way? (There's no game around
here, but it turns out that they ship meat right to the local market.)
I like autostarters too, but on a standard transmission truck they
can be dangerous. And the lousy unit we had on the Mystique locked and
unlocked doors whenwe hit bumps and did all kinds of other strange
stuff so I disconnected it.
On Sun, 14 Oct 2012 12:52:56 -0400, " firstname.lastname@example.org"
Could possibly happen with your '55 Chevy carburetor. No so much with
computer regulated fuel injection.
There is risk in crossing the street also, but I still cross them on
occasion. I probably use the remote starter 150 to 200 times a year
and I'm not giving up that comfort for a tiny bit of possibility of a
If I keep a car long enough to replace the battery, I do it by mid
November on the fifth year of its existence. Last time I got caught
with a dead battery was too long ago to remember, probably over 30
years but my wife had hers go dead about 15 years ago. It was in the
summer so not a big deal to change.
Last car that did not start at all was my '83 Olds with about 200,000
miles. It was after work so I took the company pickup home and
stopped at a local dealer and bought a new car that night.
There is the risk versus reward factor in many things we do. I'm
willing to risk it for the rewards.
I was thinking the same thing. It just sounds like the usual "I have
never used one but know it can't work" objection.
I have never heard of any issues using remote starters and there has to
be 10s of millions of them in use. It simply does the same thing you do
when you use the key or whatever starts your car. It has a timer to
prevent overcranking and tach feedback to know when the engine started.
I only wish I had a '55 Chevy. No, it was with a '97 Chrysler Intrepid.
But it's not a tiny problem. It's a wife doesn't go to work today and I hear
about it for a week, problem.
The battery was fine, before the remote starter did it in. I could have
*easily* started it manually.
GO for it, but there is a reason car makers were late to provide such starters
and were voiding warranties if there was an automatic starter involved. No
thanks. Living in the South, where they're not needed, is a *much* better
They turn on the air conditioner. I say needed. My self installed system
let you run into store and leave car running, be it cold, or hot. Very
My truck also heats up the seats when it's cold. I don't think I have any
I do that. Something I don't understand though, why does the climate
control put the AC in recirculate mode to start? If the car is closed
up, it can be 120+ inside while only 90 outside. I want to move that
air through for the first couple of minutes.
I'm also back to having a dark blue again. While I like the color, it
definitely is hotter sitting in the sun. Once the AC is going, makes
Don't forget those huge honking quad 4-BBls- along with an air supply
system that involved cutting a hole in the hood to make room for it.
I changed the plugs on my 95 Taurus at 120K -- did the 2000 Impala at
100k because I had the time and was curious. Neither set looked
like it needed changing-- and I noticed nothing different in operation
Corrosion that shows, anyway. My 11 yr old Impala [new York
winters- rarely garaged- 135K miles] has a perfect body -- but the
undercarriage has some rot. I'm concerned about the radiator
bracket- and my mechanic is eyeing some rot in the rear 1/2. A
bracket for the e-brake cable just disintegrated last month.
The 2 things that we used to check to see if odometers had been turned
back - wear on the pedals and worn out seats- are perfect. Not a
stitch is broken on the leather drivers side bucket. [even the
heater still works fine]
It fits my ass perfectly, too-- I'm going to miss this one when it
[and to the OP I haven't replaced a fuel pump since my 1966 Dart- I've
driven a Taurus, a Dodge Reliant and an Impala and a VW well over 120K
each since then]
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