GE washer transmission replacement----suspension

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The basket in my GE washer has been wobbling and making a lot of noise during spin cycles. My repairman tells me it needs a new transmission. Probably I will do the repair according to the nice instructions at
http://www.affordableappliance.com/Tips/GETransmissionReplacementNewStyle.htm
Those instructions refer to suspension units that look sort of like shock absorbers or some type of dampers, but maybe they are just springs. Anyway I wonder whether those will need to be replaced---whether they would be worn out due to the wobbling. They are referred to as "ROD/SPRNG ASM" in
http://www.appliance-parts-warehouse.com/general-electric-parts/General-Electric-Washing-Machine-Parts/General-Electric-Parts-WSSR3120W1WW/General-Electric-Parts-31851.cfm http://www.appliance-parts-warehouse.com/general-electric-parts/General-Electric-Washing-Machine-Parts/General-Electric-Parts-WSSR3120W1WW.cfm
The instructions seem very good, but any other hints would be appreciated. Especially I'd like comments about what I should/must replace besides the transmission. Apparently the "split ring" (aka C-ring) is likely to break upon removal. Anything else?
The washer's model number is WSSR3120W1WW.
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Hi,

Double check the wash tub hub, nut and split ring first before buying the tranny!

The suspention rods rarely fail, the damper rubbers break all the time! http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R 3&N"89

Have to break off the drive bell/coupler sometimes as well. http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R 3&Nu3879
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com /
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Appliance Repair Aid wrote:

Thanks for your reply!
Not clear what you have in mind regarding checking those parts. Maybe you mean some parts might be loose and I don't need a tranny, or maybe you mean I might need those parts too and I should order them at the same time.
I couldn't get the hub nut loose, so I am having to cut it off with a chisel.
Will I be able to use my channel-lock pliers to tighten the hub nut enough so that it doesn't come loose?
Thanks again!
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Hi,

Both.
It is a left hand thread.

Pipe wrench or large mouth adjustable work better. There is an tool for this... http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R 3&N21707

jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com /
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Appliance Repair Aid wrote:

Thanks again for your help. I think I have just one more question.
When I removed the trans, there was water on the shaft. Apparently it had leaked down through the tub seal. There is what looks like a bronze sintered bushing pressed into the tub where the trans shaft passes through the tub. The water was in between that bushing and the trans shaft. I wonder whether that bushing was harmed by the water and should be replaced. I don't see a part number for it, and it seems it may be inseperable from the tub.
Please advise.
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Matt wrote:

Hi,
Bearing used to come seperatly and have seen a few subbed to the whole outer tank now :(
If not scored or burnt, add a little lube ( white grease works well ) and reuse it.
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com /
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Appliance Repair Aid wrote:

http://www.appliance-parts-warehouse.com/general-electric-parts/General-Electric-Washing-Machine-Parts/General-Electric-Parts-WSSR3120W1WW/General-Electric-Parts-31852.cfm
It isn't scored at all, but it might be what you call burnt. I cleaned it with liquid wrench, and got most of the surface smooth and clean, but there was an irregularly-shaped patch of crud extending about an inch along the circumference and around a half-inch wide. The crud was like burned or polymerized oil that comes off a little at a time if you rub it pretty hard with a dry finger or scrape it with a fingernail. After a few minutes of such rubbing, most of it came off.
Does it sound like the bearing is bad?
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G'day,

Yup.
Manufacturer part number WH2X1198
http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/cgi-bin/promote-detail.cgi?affiliate_id=AppAid&item=WH2X1198&brand=GEH Tub Bearing used on Ge brand washing machines.
jeff.
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Appliance Repair Aid wrote:

http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/cgi-bin/promote-detail.cgi?affiliate_id=AppAid&item=WH2X1198&brand=GEH
Thanks. I found this picture of WH2X1198:
http://www.amresupply.com/viewpart.php?PartNumEnc=V0gyWDExOTg=&PHPSESSID 59808bc3a76956a147ecbb202814fa
That is just about what mine looks like, but it is not shown or listed as a separate part on the diagram at http://www.appliance-parts-warehouse.com/general-electric-parts/General-Electric-Washing-Machine-Parts/General-Electric-Parts-WSSR3120W1WW/General-Electric-Parts-31852.cfm
Do you think I can remove the bearing from the tub and replace it anyway?
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Hi,

Yes. Remove screw(s) from underneath and tap it out from the inside towards the bottom.
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com /
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Appliance Repair Aid wrote:

http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/cgi-bin/promote-detail.cgi?affiliate_id=AppAid&item=WH2X1198&brand=GEH
Thanks again for your help.
Now I am having some doubt as to whether I need a new transmission. If this bearing is bad, does that in itself explain the severe wobbling during spin cycles? The relevant facts seem to be:
1) the repairman said it needed a new transmission. He did not disassemble it. 2) there was water and a little burned crud (easily removed) in the bearing 3) there is some oil flung and spattered in little drops all along the outside bottom of the tub. 4) The bearing seems to be sintered bronze or so and I don't see any obvious green (copper) corrosion
Maybe the transmission shaft rusts out and gets loose from the water in the bearing.
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If water has passed through the center seal and tub bearing, chances are the water made it's way onto the spin bearing in the tranny noises and bad tranny. The bearing is on the upside down V part near the botton area of the tranny.
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com /
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Appliance Repair Aid wrote:

You are right. The bearing is rusty and very loose and it feels rough when I turn the big flange on the bottom. Wow, all they would have to do would be to put a two-bit shield over the bearing to protect it from water.
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Matt wrote:

GE, "We bring Good Things to Life"
LOL!! :D
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com /
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Appliance Repair Aid wrote:

Now that we (mostly you) have explained the wobbling and noise, do you think the tub bearing is probably okay? The grease in it was still good. I didn't detect much sign of overheating. No scoring. Just a little thin patch of brown crud that I could rub away with my finger. Also there was lube spattered onto the outside bottom of the tub. Maybe that was washed out by water, or ran out due to heat, or maybe it is just normal?
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G'day,

Many times it is ok, but we can't see it from here. *If* you deside to do the repair and invest the money for a tranny, change the bearing less possible problems/trouble makers :)
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com /
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Appliance Repair Aid wrote:

Thanks. That sounds prudent. Now what would be the best way to lube the tub bearing permanently?
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A little white grease works well, just smear it on. :)
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com /
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Appliance Repair Aid wrote:

Okay, and do I put grease inside the grooves in the rubber seal? I want to make sure that the seal doesn't fail again, since as you taught me that led to the transmission's failure.
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Matt wrote:

G'day,
Seal should already come with a lube put in the grooves when the seal is packaged with the tranny.
jeff. Appliance Repair Aid http://www.applianceaid.com /
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