That simplifies things.
The instructions I have seen for tranny replacement do not mention that
you need to lube the trans shaft and the tub's sleeve bearing. And I
don't think the trans kit or the new sleeve bearing come with lube.
Maybe the sleeve bearing is sintered and doesn't need lube? I'm happy
to use white grease as you suggest, but I wonder why none of the
instructions mention lubing the sleeve bearing.
Looks like the way to handle this is to replace the tub seal and maybe
the brake ring a month before the warranty expires. If at that time the
seal is leaking or the spin bearing is rusty or wet, have them replace
both the seal and the tranny under warranty. If I know GE quality, the
new seal will last close to six years. :-)
I'm not sure which side of the seal goes up toward the water.
I believe that the sharp edges of the seal's lips point toward the water
side, and the side with the stainless steel "waist" spring goes on the
Is that right?
Part with the small ridges inside goes up....will see 3 small tabs (
approx 1/4" wide by 1/2" long ) on the top part of the seal = upside (
towards top of the washer ).
Appliance Repair Aid
The seal-holding part of my tub has three corresponding tabs that seem
to be intended to keep the seal from coming out. Those tabs aren't
mentioned in the instructions I've seen. How important is it to line up
the tabs on the seal holder with the rubber lugs on the seal?
Also: Should the tranny shaft be inserted in the tub bearing and seal
before or after pressing the seal in? Seems like it would be easier to
press the seal in first, then push the shaft through the seal.
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