My 6 year old LiftMaster/Chamberlain 1265 has stopped working. When I push the button it hums for a few seconds twice, and then nothing. I disengaged the door, but it doesn't help. Any ideas what to do? I sent them an email, but with the holidays I am sure it will be a week or two until they reply. Funny thing is that you have a choice of complaint, and one is "hums without working"; but their FAQ does not mention the solution. Thanks.
need more details, could you hum a few lines? just kidding ; ) seasons' greetings
My guess would be a plastic gear stripped and has to be replaced.
Plastic gear stripped.
Replace the opener.
But before connecting to the new one, check to see that the door raises and lowers easily, with no binding points. Would be nice if it comes to an easy stop at about hip height, and then you need to push it down the rest of the way. That way, if you have to disengage it, it's not so hard to raise it on your own. Also takes a lot of pressure off the opener, pressure that could cause a worn gear.
Would'nt that be more of a grinding sound? The gear? That's how I diagnosed mine. Good luck
Sounds like the gears are stripped. A new gear set can be installed without replacing the opener. Had one done a couple years ago was $35 plus the cost of the service call ($65 I think). Of course this gets pretty close to the cost of a new opener if you do the install yourself. You could probably order & install the gear set yourself, but I'm not sure how difficult it would be.
Gear kit is $26 plus S & H at
Sounds like a bad capacitor, bad limit switch, bad circuit board or stuck button. If it was a gear, the motor would usually run until you hit the button to stop it & not usually run for just a couple of seconds.
Unplug opener, remove cover, if it looks like it snowed inside, the gear is shot, if you see what looks like oil in the cover the capacitor is blown. Sometimes the capacitor itself will show it is obviously blown.
If nothing appears obvious the challenge becomes in determining which part is bad when you don't have a truck full of parts sitting in your driveway. The opener could have run thru a limit & jammed to where the motor doesn't have enough power to unjam it. The motor capacitor could be bad to where it doesn't give the motor the starting power. The circuit board could be faulty & is actually telling the motor to run in both directions at the same time. A button could be stuck.
First unhook the wall button wiring at motor head to see if transmitters work. If not remove all transmitter batteries & jump across terminal screws on motor head to see if it now works. If not, try spinning the motor shaft (w/ opener unplugged & door disconnected) to get the opener in the half way position. Plug in opener to see what happens. Will the opener run one direction & not the other (bad board)? If motor just hums try to spin the motor shaft (carefully while unit is humming) & see if it runs (bad capacitor). If motor still won't start tap on circuit board relays (there are 3, light, up, & down) lightly to free up a stuck relay contact. If the motor does run verify that the limit switches will shut it off & not simply run thru them.
As you can see there are a number of possibilities & "humming" doesn't always have the same fix.
Doordoc
I took the cover off. The gears were fine, the capacitor looked fine, and there was no oil. There was an orange light blinking 5 times next to a red button. I pushed the red button and the orange light went to constant on I tried the opener; there was a "tic-tock" sound and the orange light started blinking 5 times. I unplugged and plugged back in. The orange light went out. I tried it; it hummed and went back blinking 5 times.
To see if I could determine just what was humming, I touched the back of the capacitor while the opener was humming. The motor started up, and all is well now. The orange light is still blinking 5 times.
There are no loose connections (at least none that I can see). I did not push the capacitor; the second I touched it the motor came on.
What the hell happened! Is it fixed, or should I replace something while I have it open?
Thanks.
(Two days ago my wireless router simply died, and defied all attempts at resetting. This morning I tried it, and it was fine. Something to do with Christmas?)
Maybe it doesn't know the words.
You may have a cold solder joint that when you touched it, it became in contact again. Get a solder iron and heat up both connections to ensure a good tight joint.
Any motor that just hums and doesn't turn over indicates, usually, that the centrifugal switch has failed and needs the contacts cleaned. The motor will have to be removed and the ends taken off. The contacts could just be dirty, or maybe burned a little. Some emory paper should polish them up and then put the whole thing back together and connect to the line voltage and see if that will solve your problem.
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