Old Stanley Garage Door Opener

Willie The Wimp wrote: ...

Limit switches -- there's a contact on each direction; probably on a threaded rod that rotates as opens/closes to move the actuator.

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JIC it's not the opener... You didn't mention the type of door it opens, but you have checked all points to eliminate the possibility of the door binding, right?

Unc

Does it have an overload/overheat switch? Perhaps the door is not moving freely enough and puts a heavy load on the mechanism.

Disabling the safety switch would not be the smart thing to do.

Perce

If it's a chain drive, it has stops attached to the chain, one for open, one for close. Is it possible that the door is locked or otherwise stuck?

You may well be right, but limits were properly set a long time ago, so if that's it, it almost has to be a malfunction.

I will tinker.

Thx, Willie

Pretty much. It's a standard steel door (1 bay wide), chain drive. No serious binding, bowing, etc.

No. Opener has been working fine for long, long time. Nothing visable changed.

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Well, you asked what stops up and down travel--I answered the ???

Clearly there's a malfunction of some sort; whether it's related to the limit switches or not I can't tell from here.

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Have you released the door from the opener, does it open and close smoothly with the same pressure up and down, without binding. My opener has two adjustments , one on either side for force and travel length, I had them go out of adjustment.

Agreed. First thing to do is see if the door without the opener attached works smoothly. If it does, leave the opener physically disconnected and halfway up. Then push the button and see if the motor still stops after 1 second, or if it keeps running. If it stops, there is something wrong with the motor itself or the sensors on the mechanism that determines when the door is all the way up or down. If the motor continues to run, then move the door to the up of down position and see what happens. You have to separate the motor from the actual door to see cause and effect.

You are correct. Thanks for the response.

I continue testing ...

I thought I could tell by watching full operation, up and down, without disconnect.

Now think y'all are right: I should test everything seperately. Will disconnect and test 1.) door 2.) opener (tomorrow).

Thanks, Willie

If its worn maybe the motor is shot and is pulling to many amps, use an amp meter to check it.

Tested seperately. Door was OK.

While testing opener only, carrier ran into unit on open, cracked gear casing. Worm gear is now hanging out, opener is shot.

Are the Sears openers any good? Looks like I'm on the market for a new one.

Willie

I have 3 of them, still working fine. The newest one is 20 years old.............

Of course, many things made 20 years ago (not to mention 40 years ago) lasted much longer than the crap we buy today, so YMMV.

May your Stanley R.I.P.

Down for the count. But I have 2: 1 is still going after 20+ years.

Thx, Willie

Sears units have been made by Chamberlain for as long as I know. I have had 3 in different houses. All chain drive and work well. (The one I have now I changed the worm-gear set. It was making noise for years...now it's like new)

bob_v

Thanks. I picked up a Chamberlain at HD last nite. Install today.