Liftmaster Garage Door Opener Problem

Can you just move a pulley on one end or the other to tighten the belt.

I think the wheel on the motor top was fixed in position. I don't know about the wheel at the other end - as I recall I had to bolt that down onto the rail. In any case, the belt is still under some amount of tension, and so I would need either to release the tension, which may not be easy due to the way the spring was set during assembly, or to lock the belt in place somehow so as to overcome the tension whilst I play with the bolts holding the wheel. Channel-lock pliers?

I'll take another look

Thanks

Big Fred

The slack shows during the opening. Not so much when closing. I figger maybe that is because of the weight of the door which puts stress on the mechanism. Yes I did try lubricating the wheels. No effect that I see.

I am inclined to think that you are right. Rubber does that.

Ayup

Thanks

Big Fred

Been a while since I've done one, but easy enough to replace just the belt. Might even have a part number on the old belt. Have to tighten the tensioner a bit more in a couple days, belts loosen up the first few days. Buy two, have a spare. Wire or tie wrap it up next to the opener, so it will be there for you.

. Christ> I have two 7-foot garage doors controlled by Liftmaster Model 2280-267

Usually one end is adjustable. But, ten years he's got his use out of those belts.

. Christ>

Often the motor bracket has a curved hole, and a bolt. Loosen bolt, bang the motor with a hammer, tighten bolt again.

. Christ> I think the wheel on the motor top was fixed in position. I don't

Buy a spare belt. It is cheap insurance against having to try to buy one on a SUnday afternoon when all the stores are closed.

here ya go,

I'll have to see if local Lowes has it.

TX

BF

Probably more likely to find it at an auto parts store -- AutoZone, NAPA, etc. It's probably the same as is used on some motor vehicle for something.

Perce

That would surprise me! I will do that if Lowes no have. Google shows some sources.

BF

If you have a Tractor Supply store , try there. Just have the measurments of the belt.

Bring the old belt, in hand. That usually works best, for me. I've had enough moments I measure a part, some measurement is off a bit, and have to go back.

. Christ>>> Buy a spare belt. It is cheap insurance against having to try to buy one

I am posting this just to brag that I solved my problem, and to pass on what I did in case it might help someone down the road.

I took a closer look at the belt and its connection/spring, and found that there was a nut that could be tightened with an open-end wrench. A few turns and the belt slack was gone. Seems obvious now, but my dumbness was in the way of common sense.

It has been several days now, and all seems a-okay.

Cya and thanks all.

Big Fred

Ok - Things fixed, that's great.

But, why was the belt slipping, did it stretch?? I would consider buying a spare belt just to have, it's cheap insurance.

The problems with that is if the belt finally fails someday in 10 years, I'd never find the spare belt. Probably wouldn't even remember I had it. And then the rest of it could crap out before the belt. Seems to me it's no big deal to work the door by hand for a few days when and if the belt goes.