I live in a condo. A neighbors garage is directly below my bedroom.
They recently installed a craftsman screw drive model and it is very
loud. I'm working with my neighbor to fix the problem. We're first
going to try a "vibration isolator kit" that a Lift Master dealer told
us about. If this does not work, I plan on purchasing a different
A lot of information I've found on the net so far says that belt drive
models with DC motors are the quietest, but dealers we've contacted
(Lift Master dealers) all discourage belt drive models on wooden "tilt
up" doors (it's a one-car garage btw). They say the units will wear
out, the belts will stretch, etc. (Maybe other brands would be up to
I've been reading about the Genie Excelerator model. It is a screw
drive with a DC motor. The DC motor is promising, but it's still a
screw drive. How quiet is this model?
Any help or advice on resolving this situation is appreciated.
Remember that it did not make it any quieter in the garage, but it sure
helped in the bedroom over the garage.
I modified the mounting of the powerheads (I have two doors) so they are
suspended via two pieces of rubber cut from a floormat. At the end of the
track over the door I added a rubber cushion between the bracket and the
header it was screwed into. Total cost about $15.00 US for both doors since
I had to buy the floormat.
A few people have posted that the Wayne Dalton i-Drive is supposed to be very
quiet. The motor mounts on the bar above the door and does direct drive, so no
chain or belt is required. A side benefit is the extra headroom in the garage as
there is no bar.
I'd like to hear about anyone's person experience with the unit. They are
available at Lowes, among other places.
Not sure about that - the description at Lowes implies that standard doors will
work as it says you must use the electric eye with a standard door, but do not
need it with the Dalton "no pinch" style door.
I would believe that standard hardware won't work, but that should not be that
expensive to retrofit. Would like to know though...
firstname.lastname@example.org (robert parker) wrote in message
First let me say that the isolator brackets will not do a whole lot
for keeping the noise from going up thru the floor. We have used them
on many condo's (where architects require them) with living space
right above the garage & in most cases they have very little effect on
noise reduction. Especially if the garage ceiling & unit floor is all
the same slab of concrete without any dead air space in-between.
The Liftmaster 2500 DC Belt Drive opener is in my opinion the quietest
opener on the market without a question. However it is not made for
big heavy doors. The next in line of least noise would be the
Liftmaster 2580 1/2 HP Belt Drive since the motor is suspended on a
noise isolator bracket inside the cover & the cover is insulated.
If the one-piece single wood door works smoothly & easily by hand I
don't see where a belt drive would tear up any more than any other
opener. We literally sell hundreds of belt-drive openers a month
(although the one-piece doors here are steel & the wood are sectional)
and install them on heavy sectional steel doors that have heavy steel
bracing attached for hurricane wind loads without any problems. (The
better models have lifetime (as long as you own) guarantees on the
motor & belt & 5 year guarantee on parts).
You did not say if the Craftsman opener has a one-piece rail or if it
is split into 3-pieces. The DYI opener rails are chopped so they will
fit in trunks of cars & since they bow where they are spliced together
they tend to be more noisier than the one-piece rails sold by dealers.
Could this be the problem because usually screw drive openers are not
normally "loud" when they are new? However any screw drive opener will
tend to get noiser over a period of time as parts wear. While some
brands need to be greased on a regular basis they usually will never
be as quiet again as when they were new.
email@example.com (v) wrote in message
Thanks everyone for your comments so far.
I'm certain the noise I'm hearing is primarily from the garage door
opener itself, and not from the springs, hinges, etc of the door (this
is a one piece, tilt-up door. Not a sectional roll-up door). The
noise I'm hearing is steady, like the motor running... vibrating my
floor (right under my bed!) There's a moderately loud bang as it comes
to a stop, but I don't think thats the part that wakes me up every
morning. I'm pretty certain it's the electric motor. I haven't yet
seen the unit (its not my garage) or checked to make sure everything
is well lubricated (the opener is new, the door hardware may need some
oil.) I don't expect I'll see the unit until my neighbor receives the
"vibration isolator kit" I mentioned in my original post. I offered
to install the kit. I'll inspect everything then.
There was a automatic opener before this new one. I don't remember it
ever giving me a problem. I think it was a genie screw drive model,
installed by the condo developer.
It could be that my previous neighbor simply didn't use it early in
the morning like my new neighbor does. Either that, or the new
craftsman is a real monster noise-wise compared to the old genie.
I also wonder if this new opener is installed differently than the old
one? Perhaps this new one is fastened with lag screws into a beam in
the ceiling / floor? And the old one was merely fastened to the
ceiling dry-wall with molly bolts? I don't know... all speculation on
A previous poster didn't seem to think the isolator kit would provide
much help. And another poster mentioned rigging up their own device
for isolating the noise. I might have to try something like that.
But I can't imagine hanging the opener from a non ridged device as
previously described. I envision getting a 2X4 the width of the
garage... attaching its ends to the walls rather than to the ceiling.
Between the ceiling and the 2X4 would be felt or cork pad. I'd then
bolt the opener to the 2X4 rather than directly to the ceiling. What
do you think?
Well, thanks again everyone for your ideas and comments.
If the 2x4 isn't structurally attached to the ceiling, don't connect
the two with anything. An air gap would be better than cork or felt.
I don't recall how wide the garage was, a mere 2x4 can be kinda floppy
in an unsupported long length. Also, what is the height of the garage
ceiling in relation to the top of the door, is there room for any
appreciable structure between the opener and the ceiling????
You gotta see it to evaluate it. If everybody is cooperating so far,
can't you ask to see it now so you could plan with more info?
My brother and I fixed some wires on one and after that it was
terribly noisy. I bought all the lube, etc., which did nothing.
Then, when I took the plastic cover back off to examine the motor, the
noise stopped. The plastic cover was hitting the bolt in the back and
making a terrible racket. Now it is as quiet as can be. Try moving
the plastic cover around a bit and see if you can prevent it from
making contact with the bolt in the back, which turns the long screw.
firstname.lastname@example.org (Robert) wrote in message
Condos are frequently bought by first time buyers, who aren't tuned in to the
potential problems with certain floorplans. Same kind of people tend to buy
house on corner lots.
Local builder started selling 3-plexes with one of the three units crossing over
the garages for the two lower units. Saw the ad in the paper and had to laugh.
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