fishing phone cable through hole

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Eigenvector wrote:

As it is I've already corrected the problem, others

Insults are sometimes in the eye of the beholder, but I really was taken aback by your original coathanger comment. Unless you're living in the boonies, miles away from your nearest neighbor, I'd have expected you could just ask someone nextdoor if they had one.
Peace. I apologize if my jibes were taken as serious insults, but something about not being able to take the heat and getting out of a kitchen is now rattling around in what's left of my mind. <G>
Jeff
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Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat \'57 EE)
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Eigenvector wrote:

with your already asked questions that annoys us. You are a troll to insult someone that realizes your idiotic scheme. I am surprised you haven't post a question on how to get out of bed in the morning.
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in a circle till they hook up, and pull. Cut up coat hanger will work fine. It'll take a few tries. You can enlarge the interior hole some- just put the surface-mount jack over it.
Yet another of many reasons I HATE through-the-wall installs. Basement and fished through walls to open-back boxes, or even basement and diagnal hole drilled through baseboard right under the surface-mount block, is the correct way to go, IMHO. Of course, on a new house, a proper home-run prewire is the only way to go.
aem sends...
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picked up a low voltage box and wall mount kit, to replace the aging surface box. Once I cut a hole in the drywall for the box, I should be able to easily see the hole in the siding.
Another BTW: What gauge is phone wire typically, and do normal wire strippers work on it? Picking up some new cable the package read 22 gauge, but I've seen 24 and 26 too. Seems like none of my strippers work on anything below 18, even though they claim to. I bring this up because I also picked up some fork connectors for the bolts - smallest I could find was 22-18awg which doesn't mean much to me other than its 22 guage wire, with 18 gauge jacketing???
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My guess is that your real dislike is for a house "wrapped" in wire. Stapling wire along exterior siding is, after all, the ONLY reason for a "thought-the-wall" installation.
--
:)
JR

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wrote:

is weather-rated. The stuff on house side of demarc usually isn't. The less wire exposed to weather and sun, the fewer chances for failure. Through-the-wall installs are done because they are fast and easy, especially if the house only has a crawlspace and/or shallow attic. And don't even get me started on typical old-work cable TV/Satt install hack jobs.
aem sends...
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coat hangar.
s

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Steve Barker LT wrote:

That's a place they store coats in, like a garage for cars, right?
Jeff
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Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat \'57 EE)
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yeppers.
s

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On Thu, 6 Sep 2007 17:35:57 -0700, "Eigenvector"

Unless you are planning to use DSL, I would think the existing cable would last for years. Any peculiar reason you would want to change the phone cable?
I get the feeling that you won't have much success in fishing a route that spans more than one stud. (let us know how you did it)
You might consider just abandoning the run and put the phone cable in the crawl space. You can mount phone jacks on the baseboard at floor level and you only need a 3/8 hole in the floor that the jack will cover when you are done.
The last option is to buy a base phone that comes with 2 or 3 cordless extension phones. I have an AT&T phone I love. It came with one extra handset.
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wrote:

That's why.

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If the original work was done as "old work", that is, added AFTER the house was built, I can't imagine any wireman not having a drill bit long enough that the two holes WOULD line up. I RARELY drill-in from both sides, then fish for the wire.
Now that you've lost the pull (old) wire, it might just as well never have been there to begin with. You can try to reuse the original holes or you could much more easily drill another two.
Many old holes drilled for added phone cable were 1/4-inch in diameter. That nicely accommodated the old "quad wire" (R/G/Y/Bk) (D-Station wire, light olive gray). The new stuff, particularly the 4-pair Cat 5e rarely makes it easily through those old holes. I regularly "ream out" the holes with my 1/4-inch x 12-inch bit and see if I can shove through the new piece of four pair. After a couple of failures, I simply get out the 5/16-inch x 12-inch bit and "hog out" the existing holes or drill new ones, caulking-up the old ones.
As for a coat hangar-type pull/lead wire: Go just about ANYWHERE and snatch a utility locating flag. The straighter the wire, the better. I use more NEW locating flags for fishing telephone cable than I do for actual cable locates.
I generally imbed about an inch of fish wire into the end of the cable to be inserted into the hole. The stiff wire easily/eventually finds the other hole and, with careful straightening of the cable as you ROTATE and push the cable gently, it usually will follow the locating flag wire/leader through the opposite hole.

You have either the two ends flimsily connected *OR* are pulling too hard. Obviously, you don't want them to separate.

One pair of either cable should be sufficient for even a long pull - with no significant obstructions or angles to traverse. While in the comfort of your favorite chair, with your favorite beverage nearby, PRACTICE making a loop of the end of one pair then create a loop on the OTHER end of the other cable, threading its loop THROUGH that of the first cable. Try to pull them apart. Make them so they don't.
Once you have a connection scheme figured out, practice vinyl taping across the joint so that pulling in EITHER direction will NOT cause a snag against ANYTHING.
This is an acquired skill that is probably not promptly mastered. It is certainly NOT easy to describe in this medium.

24, usually. 26 is ridiculously too small.
Old "JK" wire is 20-gauge

That depends on the stripper. (Duh = 7.6)
Investing in a good, appropriately sized wire stripper is money well spent. I suspect they are not very expensive.

Most buried service wire (BSW/drop) is 22-gauge. Although it wouldn't hurt a bit, 22 would be overkill, more expensive and possibly not as data capable (rated on jacket). 24 is fine inside the premise. Good luck.
--
:)
JR

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The telephone guy who did my house used a flexible fiber glass pole to get the wire through. It came in sections so that he could make it as long as he liked without needing alot of room. IF you have alot of fishing to do it may be worth the cost. The one he used runs about $90 but you can go the homestore and buy a chimney cleaning kit with exact same fiberglass poles for $19. The difference being the wire attachment point. I drilled a hole in the end and havent lost a wire yet

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Eigenvector wrote:

I have most of the professional tools for pulling wire through walls but I often use an old dipstick with a hole punched in the tip for pulling those short little runs.
[8~{} Uncle Monster
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