As it is I've already corrected the problem, others
Insults are sometimes in the eye of the beholder, but I really was taken
aback by your original coathanger comment. Unless you're living in the
boonies, miles away from your nearest neighbor, I'd have expected you
could just ask someone nextdoor if they had one.
Peace. I apologize if my jibes were taken as serious insults, but
something about not being able to take the heat and getting out of a
kitchen is now rattling around in what's left of my mind. <G>
with your already asked questions that annoys us. You are a troll to
insult someone that realizes your idiotic scheme. I am surprised you
haven't post a question on how to get out of bed in the morning.
in a circle till they hook up, and pull. Cut up coat hanger will work fine.
It'll take a few tries. You can enlarge the interior hole some- just put the
surface-mount jack over it.
Yet another of many reasons I HATE through-the-wall installs. Basement and
fished through walls to open-back boxes, or even basement and diagnal hole
drilled through baseboard right under the surface-mount block, is the
correct way to go, IMHO. Of course, on a new house, a proper home-run
prewire is the only way to go.
picked up a low voltage box and wall mount kit, to replace the aging surface
box. Once I cut a hole in the drywall for the box, I should be able to
easily see the hole in the siding.
Another BTW: What gauge is phone wire typically, and do normal wire
strippers work on it? Picking up some new cable the package read 22 gauge,
but I've seen 24 and 26 too. Seems like none of my strippers work on
anything below 18, even though they claim to. I bring this up because I
also picked up some fork connectors for the bolts - smallest I could find
was 22-18awg which doesn't mean much to me other than its 22 guage wire,
with 18 gauge jacketing???
is weather-rated. The stuff on house side of demarc usually isn't. The less
wire exposed to weather and sun, the fewer chances for failure.
Through-the-wall installs are done because they are fast and easy,
especially if the house only has a crawlspace and/or shallow attic. And
don't even get me started on typical old-work cable TV/Satt install hack
Unless you are planning to use DSL, I would think the existing cable
would last for years. Any peculiar reason you would want to change
the phone cable?
I get the feeling that you won't have much success in fishing a route
that spans more than one stud. (let us know how you did it)
You might consider just abandoning the run and put the phone cable in
the crawl space. You can mount phone jacks on the baseboard at floor
level and you only need a 3/8 hole in the floor that the jack will
cover when you are done.
The last option is to buy a base phone that comes with 2 or 3 cordless
extension phones. I have an AT&T phone I love. It came with one
If the original work was done as "old work", that is, added AFTER the house
was built, I can't imagine any wireman not having a drill bit long enough that
the two holes WOULD line up. I RARELY drill-in from both sides, then fish for
Now that you've lost the pull (old) wire, it might just as well never have
been there to begin with. You can try to reuse the original holes or you
could much more easily drill another two.
Many old holes drilled for added phone cable were 1/4-inch in diameter. That
nicely accommodated the old "quad wire" (R/G/Y/Bk) (D-Station wire, light
olive gray). The new stuff, particularly the 4-pair Cat 5e rarely makes it
easily through those old holes. I regularly "ream out" the holes with my
1/4-inch x 12-inch bit and see if I can shove through the new piece of four
pair. After a couple of failures, I simply get out the 5/16-inch x 12-inch
bit and "hog out" the existing holes or drill new ones, caulking-up the old
As for a coat hangar-type pull/lead wire: Go just about ANYWHERE and snatch a
utility locating flag. The straighter the wire, the better. I use more NEW
locating flags for fishing telephone cable than I do for actual cable locates.
I generally imbed about an inch of fish wire into the end of the cable to be
inserted into the hole. The stiff wire easily/eventually finds the other hole
and, with careful straightening of the cable as you ROTATE and push the cable
gently, it usually will follow the locating flag wire/leader through the
You have either the two ends flimsily connected *OR* are pulling too hard.
Obviously, you don't want them to separate.
One pair of either cable should be sufficient for even a long pull - with no
significant obstructions or angles to traverse. While in the comfort of your
favorite chair, with your favorite beverage nearby, PRACTICE making a loop of
the end of one pair then create a loop on the OTHER end of the other cable,
threading its loop THROUGH that of the first cable. Try to pull them apart.
Make them so they don't.
Once you have a connection scheme figured out, practice vinyl taping across
the joint so that pulling in EITHER direction will NOT cause a snag against
This is an acquired skill that is probably not promptly mastered. It is
certainly NOT easy to describe in this medium.
24, usually. 26 is ridiculously too small.
Old "JK" wire is 20-gauge
That depends on the stripper. (Duh = 7.6)
Investing in a good, appropriately sized wire stripper is money well spent. I
suspect they are not very expensive.
Most buried service wire (BSW/drop) is 22-gauge. Although it wouldn't hurt a
bit, 22 would be overkill, more expensive and possibly not as data capable
(rated on jacket). 24 is fine inside the premise. Good luck.
The telephone guy who did my house used a flexible fiber glass pole to get
the wire through. It came in sections so that he could make it as long as he
liked without needing alot of room. IF you have alot of fishing to do it may
be worth the cost. The one he used runs about $90 but you can go the
homestore and buy a chimney cleaning kit with exact same fiberglass poles
for $19. The difference being the wire attachment point. I drilled a hole in
the end and havent lost a wire yet
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