I would like to put some (4 or 5) 120v lights on the exterior facia boards of my 2-story house to illuminate the patio. If I read my "Wiring Simplified" corectly, all of the exteior wiring must be in conduit. Is there any way to do this with UF (or similar) behind the facia boards?
With the 45 degree corners and rafter ends I am not sure how I could (physically) route rigid conduit in the narow space at hand. Ideally Iwould like to be able to install (staple) something like UF behind the facia boards.
Any comments (except 'you knucklehead, you should hire...')?
Well, you could take the fascia off and run the conduit in behind it, come farther in-board to where you've got room to work, and branch out to each light, or use flexible armored conduit. You could also use low-voltage halogens, to which different rules apply.
Is there room to use a box or a joiner at the corners? No radius to worry about at least, IF there's access to it, or it can be prewired adn slipped in in two pieces, then tightened together.
It depends on where you live and what the code is there. In my neck of the woods if the wire was behind the facia then it would no longer be exterior. I would pull the facia off and run the wiring then put the facia back up again. In some places all wiring is required to be in conduit or flexible armored cable. You might want to specify where you are to see if someone here knows the local code or better yet call your local code enforcement office and see how it should be done.
"Borax" wrote in news:1116909244.975937.51540 @o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com:
What about running the conduit at the joint between the rafters and the house then coming out through the fascia in whatever rafter bay you want a light? Various conduit bodies or junction boxes could be used to create a T at the joint. The conduit could be painted to match whatever part it rests against and probably wouldn't be too intrusive.
Schedule 80 PVC can usually substitute for metallic ridgid conduit and would be much easier to work with. There are pre bent fittings in various angles or it can be bent to an infinite selection of angles with heat (and practice). There are various tricks to this like filling the pipe with sand first but you can search for those if you need more info. I've never seen schedule 80 at a home center so you'd probably have to get it from an electrical supply house.
Assuming this is normal 2 story height I'd be personally comfortable with schedule 40 PVC or liquid tight flexible conduit but I'm not an inspector. If you have a local inspector, I'd check with them. As long as it was sunlight resistant, the UF would probably be relatively safe with water tight fittings as long as no animal ate through it. I personally wouldn't use just UF, however.
I assume you don't have an attic. That would open other options if you did.
My home is 50-60 years old. The air vent pipe is definately galvanized. On the main waste line, it looks like it's CI though
The main waste pipe is black with slight rusty brown on some areas. It's must thicker than the usual galvanized pipe. I suspect it's cast iron. How can one tell...
I'm 99.99% sure it is CI. It was used almost exclusively back then, for main drains. It will have a different ring when tapped with a hammer. There is no need to pain galvanized, but CI would rust not painted.
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