Diesel generator, 2 questions

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Thank you!
Gunner, I am also emailing this post to you. How do you want the dimensions delivered to you, do you have a fax machine? Thanks!
I have them all written down.

I will buy whatever exhaust line is best. I thought that I could make an angled connection, so that the muffler faces upwards.

I completely agree and I thought about the same thing last night. That the attachment should be able to not turn leverage and vibration into a breaking force.
i

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Ignoramus16074 wrote:

I had exhaust problems with the apu genny I built. Being on the road all the time being the long winded and off topic part. The steel flexible electrical conduit would work, if you can get a good seal where it mates to the hard tubes, and it comes in small diameter.
Most auto parts stores carry flexible exhaust pipe. NAPA and AUTOZONE have it IIRC where I last saw it in a store.
Hey Igor, JC WHITNEY is down on I-80 near I-39. That's midway east-west and about 1/3 south from the top of Illinois.
It's more a warehouse than anything else, but you could do a will-call. Here's the links for their flexible tubing. http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductDisplay/s-10101/p-1021/c-10101
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On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 07:09:49 GMT, Dale Eastman

He only needs about a foot. I think at this point Id give 1" steel flex conduit a shot. And you can use standard conduit connecters, sweep el's etc.
Gunner
Confronting Liberals with the facts of reality is very much akin to clubbing baby seals. It gets boring after a while, but because Liberals are so stupid it is easy work." Steven M. Barry
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Gunner, I have a picture of a piece of paper with the drawing and dimensions. Please tell me if this is all you need. Sorry, forgot to measure the muffler's pipe diameter.
http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/muffler /
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On 28 Sep 2004 12:52:53 GMT, Ignoramus29889

Hey! Thats just fine. works for me. Measure the muffler diameter id on the end with the splits in it. I think...think thats the side that the hose attaches to.
One thing that I really Need..is the location of the bolts in relation to the bottom left corner of the port. Its hard to tell if the vertical line of the port bisect the bolts or not, and where.
On a fresh sheet of paper, draw the rectangular opening. Using the lower left corner of the port, measure to the left, to the outside of the bottom bolt.
Repeat for the top bolt, using the lower left corner. Measure to the outside of the bolt.
Now do the same, from the bottom left corner, to the bottom of the bolt. Repeat with the top bolt, to the top of the bolt.
This gives me the location of the bolts in relationship to a fixed point. I simply divide the bolt diameter in half, to find the center of each bolt, in the horizontal and vertial axis.
Other than that, you did a great job.
Gunner
Confronting Liberals with the facts of reality is very much akin to clubbing baby seals. It gets boring after a while, but because Liberals are so stupid it is easy work." Steven M. Barry
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Thanks.
Will do.

Thanks, not much of a job, obviously, but I will take some more measurements. Worst case, I could drill the holes for the bolts, myself. Maybe it is even a better option?
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On 28 Sep 2004 17:39:07 GMT, Ignoramus29889

Nah..Ill do it. You gave me enough data points to find bolt centers, but Im a big fan of "measure Twice, Cut Once"
Id hate to go to the effort of doing a nice job and have you screw it up with an 18vt cordless drill <G>
You may..may have to open the holes up though if I don't put in enough fudge factor.
Ill also NEED to know what size hose you are going to use. That's moy importante. The adapter plate is the easy part..its the hose connection that's gonna be a toughy, as I have to leave enough meat that the metal doesnt fatigue and break out where the hose joins.
Gunner
Confronting Liberals with the facts of reality is very much akin to clubbing baby seals. It gets boring after a while, but because Liberals are so stupid it is easy work." Steven M. Barry
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The Russians even say "measure 7 times, cut once".
I agree with that saying.

I agree with this approach.

understood. I will take more measurements tonight.
Thank you!
i

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Gunner wrote:

I concur.
I cut it twice and it's still too short.
2' won't break the bank, leaves room for errors.
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Gunner, I got some more pictures of dimensions, including a fairly accurate paper cutout.
I can mail you that cutout, it is the most precise thing and probably easiest for you to work with.
http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/muffler /
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Thanks, I will definitely buy that tubing, probably closer to the end of my project.
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Ignoramus29889 wrote:

I think gunner is right. Depends upon the diameter. The steel flex conduit will be much cheaper, and the box stores can cut whatever length you need.
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wrote:

Isn't it too thin gauge for the gas comout out right from the exhaust?
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Ignoramus29889 wrote:

Gunner's going to have to put a pipe stub on the machined 'exhaust manifold' that you will have to attach the flex tube to. The piece of flex tube conduit I used seemed to work. My problem was odd size of the muffler pipe stub. Had I had time and still owned the vehicle, I would have done just what you are doing.
If you don't play slinky with the flex conduit and bend it back and forth it should keep the seal in the spirals. A point to think about is that the flex tube will be hotter on one end and cooler on the other. If you examine the spiral, you will notice on one end of the tube if you follow the spiral, it starts on the outside and stays there. On the other end it starts on the inside. Each successive spiral overlaps the next. On the inside, or the outside depending on where you start.
You will want the inside on the motor/ hotter end so that heat expansion of the spiral seals it against the outer spiral.
AFAIK, the difference in the automotive flex pipe, is that the automotive has a bigger overlap
http://home.sprintmail.com/~dalereastman/images/flextube.GIF
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Thank you!
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On 26 Sep 2004 21:28:40 GMT, Ignoramus12690

Using photoshop, or any other graphics program, text edit the dimensions on
http://igor.chudov.com/tmp/muffler/-THUMBNAIL.dscf0014.jpg
or a copy of it. I need to know the size of the hole, both height and width, and I need to know where the centers of the bolts are located.
Using a common point..hummm left bottom corner, I need to know exactly where the bottom and top bolts are located in relationship to that bottom left corner. Measure to the center of each bolt. If you have to, use a small perfectly square chunk of something as a reference square. I also need to know the diameter of those bolts and how long they are, and how long the unthreaded portions are.
I should mention..that there is not a hell of a lot of material in the area of those bolts, so you MUST make a support member to hold the muffler to the genset frame, else the vibrating lever called the muffler will simply crack out the aluminum housing around the exhaust port.
In fact..Id use some small steel flex line from the adapter and run it to the rigidly mounted muffler. Cut a piece of bar or at least 3/16" x1" flat stock, long enough to be bolted horizontally to both of the cart frame uprights and at least 6" away from that plastic fuel tank. Make two, and put one on the other side, with a couple pieces of All Thread and it will make a dandy place to hang your extension cords when not in use.
You can secure the muffler to the horizontal flat stock with a couple of standard hose clamps.
I also need to know the ID of the split end of the muffler. That is the input end I think. I can make you an adapter to fit whatever it is you are going to use for flex line. Perhaps you can scrounge up a 12" length of 1" STEEL flex conduit. If not..Ill see what I can find. Flex conduit is not ideal for this..but it will work for light duty such as this. 3/4" might work..shrug..might be a bit more backpressure than is good.
Give me the specs and Ill use a dull ax to shape something for you.
Gunner
Confronting Liberals with the facts of reality is very much akin to clubbing baby seals. It gets boring after a while, but because Liberals are so stupid it is easy work." Steven M. Barry
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I will do that (or get the scanner to work) tonight. I can also make a piece from cardboard that matches the bolt holes exactly and the opening etc. This way there will be no doubt. I can then mail the cardboard piece to you if you want.

Will do.

I completely agree, but note that the difficulty is that the genset vibrates extremely, IN RELATION TO THE FRAME, at low rpm. I am talking literally centimeters.

Thanks, will try to get all info tonight.
i
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Gunner wrote:

>

Boy am I envious of you. Work and play are the same for you. And you got all the toys too.
I won't get mad at you unless you start bragging that your tool is bigger than mine.

Old saying be a fellow I knew in Electronics, "The better you are, the less tools you need." He carried a 4 inch minus screw driver in his shirt pocket.
I think the old maul might be just the tool for the job. 8?)
Let's see what the O.P.s got for the problem once he posts or sends some images.

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Thank you Gunner! I am going to run a 1/2 marathon tomorrow in the morning, but after that, I will take dimensions, high resolution digital pictures, etc etc, and will set up a little webpage with that. I will pay shipping, cost of the materials also, and would not mind paying you some amount for your work, as I think that it is only fair.
As for the exit port, I think that having a 1" opening would make it easiest to buy a cheap car muffler, although I am not sure.
I was recently working on a power starter for this engine. Manually starting it is next to impossible.
Bought a $11.50 used 12V tecumseh starter.
The tecumseh starter, when directly (inline) connected to the flywheel, through a contraption of mine, can spin the engine, but not fast enough. Obviously, it was designed to operate with a perhaps 8:1 ratio or some such, not with 1:1 ratio. The engine can, however, be spun up with a dewalt drill, and starts wonderfully. Obviously, that's not a good solution for power outage, but perhaps it is a good excuse to buy a 18V cordless drill.
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Ignoramus32065 wrote:

I'm almost starting to think you are playing a game of Yes, But.
If you have, or can borrow, a digital camera, email me some pictures of various angles of this exhaust port. I'll even stick em up on my webspace for a short while and post the link. There's lots of talent hangs out in this group. (or should I say groups since the is xpost to 4)
Better yet, if you live close enough to the Wisconsin border come visit me with that thing. IIRC you said you lived in IL.
It ain't rocket science.
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