Can anyone identify this water pressure regulator

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Can anyone identify this water pressure regulator. It i leaking around the adjusting screw...
I'd like to get a repair kit for it, but cant find a make or model.
The house was built in in BC Canada in 1975
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/image.php?2778bc182d.jpg
M
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No.
However, that is a 1973 patent number.
Here is a model that looks close:
http://www.fnwvalve.com/FNWValve/prodDetail.jsp?BLOCK_ID 000874&NavLink9
http://www.fnwvalve.com/FNWValve/assets/images/PDFs/FNW/FNW_Fig.120105.pdf
Is there a part number on the other side?
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I looked with a mirror on the other side, Couldnt see any make or model .

I looked with a mirror on the other side, Couldnt see any make or model .
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On 6/8/2010 9:44 PM, Ray wrote:

Just put in a new one. Jeeeeze....
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Steve Barker
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The picture you see is shooting thru a small access hole, To get in there with soldering torch , cutting tools, etc is going to take major work. I read that these things can be rebuilt without removing the body.
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On 6/8/2010 10:37 PM, Ray wrote:

make the hole bigger, use a couple shark bite connectors, you're done in 15 minutes or less. And no broken off screws which lead to replacing it anyway and being without water.
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Steve Barker
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Sounds like you have all the answers
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He may not have all of them-- but he has the right ones in this case. Yet you come off like the know-it-all that asks a question and doesn't like the [good] advice he gets so he 'bites' the hand that is trying to feed him.
Have a nice life- Jim
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I dont remember asking how to do any of the work....
This will entail ripping out the basement interior wall and access panel drywall and framing. Big Mess in the family room.
replacing the valve, rebuilding the wall, drywall, priming, painting which I think will take more than 15 minutes. All of which I have plenty of experience doing.
I only explore the possibility of rebuilding the valve. I didnt even ask about that. I asked what model the valve might be.
MIB was the person very helpful !
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wrote:

Save yourself ongoing problems, and the potential for a very expensive flood. Replace the entire unit, regardless of how much work it is to do it correctly. I would further suggest that rather than re-sealing the wall, you cover it with an access panel. This is not the kind of thing that should be sealed inside a wall without some way to get at it easily.
Don't forget to check the water pressure when done. These things are often not set accurately from the factory.
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On 6/9/2010 11:22 AM, Ray wrote:

this item should not be behind a wall anyway. I'd do the repair properly and make an access panel or door for future access. Surely it's near the main valve anyway, right? Or at least it should be.
s
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Steve Barker
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On 6/9/2010 12:40 AM, Ray wrote:

nope, but i have been known for doing things the easy way.
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Steve Barker
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re: "Sounds like you have all the answers."
I don't know if he has *all* the answers, but he sure has this one.
Before I knew about SharkBites I made a big hole in my basement bathroom ceiling and sweated a new regulator in. Sure wish I knew about SharkBites back them.
SharkBites are *sweet*, especially for cramped spots and quick fixes.
A few weekends ago I turned off the water, cut the pipe going to a hose bib, slapped on a SharkBite cap and had the water back on before the commercial was over.
I was back in the shop watching the ball game without missing a pitch.
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P.S. Forgot to mention that SharkBites let you work on pipes that have water in them, something that makes sweating a bit troublesome.
I once tried to sweat a cap onto a pipe that had some water in it. The steam built up and shot it across the basement.
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Steve Barker wrote:

I don't know the ratings for shark bites, but the pressure before the regulator could be well over 150psi. After the regulator it's no problem but before it....???? Maybe the water company will tell you the approximate pressure?
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I sure hope Shark Bites are rated for street pressure.
I just installed 2 so I could "upgrade" the backyard hose bib to street pressure I tapped into the street pressure copper that goes to front hose bib and ran PEX across the basement to the back yard bib.
Actually, I already knew that they are.
Stolen without permission from:
http://www.cashacme.com/_images/pdf_downloads/products/sharkbite/SB_PEX_Install.pdf
Maximum Working Pressure: 160psi @ 73.4F (23C) 100psi @ 180F (80C) 80psi @ 200F (93C)
As long as it stays under 180F in my basement, I should be OK.
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DerbyDad03 wrote:

http://www.cashacme.com/_images/pdf_downloads/products/sharkbite/SB_PEX_Install.pdf
You should have a little leeway there with your temps! :-) Unless a fire breaks out, then it may fail and put out the fire!
I more curious than anything, what is your pressure at what time? Early morning should be the highest before people start getting ready for work.
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On 6/11/2010 2:24 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

http://www.cashacme.com/_images/pdf_downloads/products/sharkbite/SB_PEX_Install.pdf
Not sure I would assume that pressure will never exceed 100psi. Water systems tend to have lots of spikes and also off peak pressure buildup. I have gauges on both sides of the regulator and it isn't unusual to see street pressure showing 130 psi at 4 AM.
The prior water company here started to cheap out and switched to plastic for service lines. After a few years they were plagued with leaks. The water company that bought them out spent years replacing the plastic used by the prior company.
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Shark bites are good for 160. Street pressure is usually in the 80 to 120 range.
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That may make it easier, but after 35 years, chances are the housing and insides are crap and the unit will have to be replaced anyway.
Many regulators have a metal tag under the adjusting screw. That will have the pressure and the model number. Were any other houses build on the street at the same time? Maybe you can see theirs better. You can try matching it up with major brands, such as Watts.
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