Both garage door opener remotes stoped working


Have a Lift Master auto-opener in my 2 car garage...both remotes startyed to need multiple presses on the button for awhile...then they both stopped. Replaced the battery (correct battery) in both but still no results.
The inside opener pad works fine...?...what can I do to trouble shoot and/or repair this issue ?
Thanks, Tim
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Is the inside pad wired to the unit or is it wireless? If it's wired I would suspect the radio receiver in the opener has malfunctioned and there isn't anything you could do. If you code the remotes to the opener electronically you coud try to recode them.
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Probably not if you can't figure out that it isn't the remotes that are the problem.
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No insult intended. First check the batteries and make sure you installed them correctly and that they are good. Just because you bought them new does not mean they are good.
Second thing to check is that the battery contacts are touching the battery. We just went though that with a single remote. How the contacts got sprung is beyond me. Happening to 2 units at the same time would be even stranger.
Another long shot. Make sure the safety eyes are fully showing green. For some reason if they are slightly off or have an intermittent signal the wired inside control always works better that the wireless.
And last is the most expensive. It might be the receiving unit on the opener.
Do let us know what you find.
Colbyt
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That brings up another idea. A fellow at work changed his battery on the key that opens his car door. It would not work. Then he looked under the lid and it said to get near the car and hold the open button down and maybe another one for several seconds.
Some openers use a rolling code and if they have the button pressed too many times while out of range of the receiver or the battery is replaced, the codes get out of sequence and need to be reset.
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On Sun, 18 Apr 2010 16:51:15 -0400, "Colbyt"

I'm not the OP but for someone else, I already know I need another receiving unit. Are those the words I should look for?
Do I have to buy both fobs and receiving unit? Or buy a receiving unit made for the fobs.
Or is it all universal?

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wrote:

I really don't know. I have never had one die. I would start by seeing if the MFG has a website and a PDF version of the manual and parts list. Determine what they call it.
I suspect that there is no such thing as universal. I also suspect that with the pricing strategy currently in effect that you might be better off replacing the opener. All the parts I have purchased in recent years are way out of line with the retail selling price of a new anything. Changing out an opener with one of a similar design should only take a few hours for the average handy person. Only hand tools would be required and nothing dangerous about it.
Colbyt
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On Mon, 19 Apr 2010 17:15:04 -0400, "Colbyt"

Actually, I don't even have a garage door and neither does my friend, but he bought a house that used two remotes and receiver to turn on the house floodlights before the driver, especially his wife, gets out of the car. In some mad cleaning moment, he threw away the receiver when he didn't know what it was, and now needs a replacemnt.
So I ought one on ebay for 35 dollars, new, and even though the input voltage was within the acceptable range, it burned out after a couple uses. The vendor sent me another one for free, but the same thing happened.
I must have done something wrong, or he had very inferior receivers, but either way, I have to get another receiver and start again.
I still have the fobs that came with the first and second receivers, so it would be nice if the new receiver could use its fobs and the 4 fobs he bought last year. :) Although first things first is to get

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wrote:> Actually, I don't even have a garage door and neither does my friend,

My only experience with a light control that used the extra buttons on the remote was a very simple system purchased from Sears. The entire receiver replaced a single pole light switch. There was nothing else connected to the lighting circuit. It worked with any remote that had dip switches to set the broadcast code. When I bought it in 1986 or so the price was less than $20.
I later saw a similar device marketed by Genie. I did a quick search on Google using "remote light control" without the quotes. Complete new systems are less than $50. Trying to pair old and new is always a chancy thing.
Motion sensor lights have gotten really cheap over the last few years and may be a better, cheaper option. I spent less than $25 for a dual head floodlight with motion at Lowes last fall.
Colbyt
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On Tue, 20 Apr 2010 16:39:22 -0400, "Colbyt"

That sounds great, if I can still find it. Even better than what they had, because they also had a manual switch, but when it was turned on remotely, it used a relay that was unaffected by the manual switch. They had to bring the remote into the house or use the second one turn the lights off.

Definitely. That sounds great. I'll look for it too.

You have a point with that, although I got a new floodlight that goes on with motion and also has an interior beeper that beeps when it goes on. It goes on a lot, several times anight. when it's windy more than that. It's not infinitely adjustable, and I think I have it on the least sensitive of 3 settings, but I'm not sure anymore. It hasn't been doing this lately. I didn't notice until just now. I dont' think I unplugged the beeper. I have to check on it tomorrow. Hey, I walked by 4 nights ago, and it didn't go on. I thought because I was outside the fence, but now I don't think so. The fence is no more than 30 feet from the house. Thanks for calling this to my attention.,
In addition there are about 8 floodlights, 2 per corner facing oppsoite ways that all go on at once, but only one switch and one parallel relay controlling them. So if it goes on more often than it should, that's 8 lights not just 2. OTOH, maybe it *shoudl* go on if a burglar walks by. If we could get it so it only works when they drive into their driveway and not when people walk down the sidewalk, which happens a lot.
A lot to think about, not to mention being way behind on my own stuff.
P&M

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Since both went bad at same time, the problem is likely in the receiver. Which is mounted on the side of the opener.
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Christopher A. Young
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Hmmm, Maybe antenna wire got loose?
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wrote:

I was replacing the plastic light covers on my opener just the other day. At closer look I see the wire was on top of the opener (from co. install ...) I draped the wire down the side and all is well. Maybe me, but it seems to work much better.
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That is very possibly the receiver antenna. And, it's also very possible that it works much better, now.
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Is that what's running around the garage, yapping and trying to get out?
Could have been the aluminum siding on the garage door, too.
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On 4/18/2010 2:32 PM, TR wrote:

If your opener uses a fixed code set by multiple slider switches, try resetting all the switches in the receiver, either to a new code pattern or cycle each switch to the adjacent position and move it back to where it started. Then, open the cover of one of the remotes and make sure that the slider switches are set to the same (corresponding) code (switch position pattern). With time, you could have developed some oxidation at the contact point on one of the sliders in the receiver and by cycling or moving the slider, you can clean off the contacts and make a better connection.
It's a long shot, but worth the time before spending big $$ getting the unit repaired/replaced.
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