Portable A/C

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David
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kool writes:

Hard to say. YOU hide your identity. Must not have read my sermons on the cowardice of anonymity.
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Well, he did put up this page with superb directions for replacing a garage door torsion spring.... http://www.truetex.com/garage.htm
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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If the dehunidifier is in the space the power to run it is heat added to the space. Any other heat it delivers was in the space already. It converts latent heat to sensible.
The only heat it removes is the energy in the liquid condensate that drains away.
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By the way, that's 800 watts of power, vs energy. You might enjoy learning the difference :-)

Wow, you really ARE stupid... and not embarrassed at all? :-)
Think really hard. It takes energy to evaporate water...
Nick
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If I'm stupid you must be retarded?
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kj, here is another one for the killfile. thes idiots are also cross posting all over the place to try and stir up even more shit

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Since when?
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kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:

Hehehe... can't resist. A teensy bit is light (the element glows), and maybe even a teensier bit is noise (the element vibrates at the AC rate)
Devil made me do it :)
Take care.
Ken
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Ken Weitzel wrote:

But both of those are eventually absorbed and dissipated as heat...
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How so? :)
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wrote:

The OP said he didn't require heating. I think you're a bit on the high side in your heat output estimate. I think 400 watts for a residential unit would be more realistic. You're dropping the relative humidity which will affect latent heat, and the units themselves only draw 600-800 watts. Even a heating element isn't 100% efficient.
R
Dehumidifiers don't use heating elements, they just pass the chilled dehumidified air through the condenser which heats it back up. There's some net gain, since the power consumed by the compressor (about 400W) becomes heat.
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wrote:

Not another one...
Since when is electric heat not 100% efficient?
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Tom Del Rosso wrote:

Don't waste your money on one. I had an 8000 BTU model. It was a worthless piece of junk. They have a *very* serious design flaw - the air the gets blown across the condensing coils (high side, the hot part) on normal a/c units comes from outside, blows across the high side, and is vented to the outside. Works great. With the portable units, the air that blows across the condensing coils comes from the room your are trying to cool, and is vented to the outside. This causes a relatively high volume of air to be vented to the outside - and hot air to be sucked into the room. IOW, it is constantly sucking in a lot of hot air from outside, and trying to cool it along with the hot air that is already in the room. Because of this, they will not cool as much space as a window mount 8000 BTU unit will.
Bite the bullet and get a window mount unit.
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or get one with two hoses, that draws in its condenser air from the outside
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My 2 cents on a portable AC:
1) Get a model with two hoses - the two hose models use outside air to cool the condenser and will be more effecient. You will not be sucking the cooled air out of the room to blow it outside - this is what the models with one hose do (the condenser air comes from somewhere. 2) Be prepared to have a real drain (ie hose going somewhere) on the unit unless you want to be emptying condensate all the time. They seem to be able to blow some condensate out the air hose, but unless you are in a dry area you will probably get more condensate than what it can evaporate out the air hose. (If you want to pump water out the window you will probably need a condensate pump and some 3) They are for the most part pretty quiet. It seems most of the noise is what you can hear through the thin walls of the air hoses leading to the window (these hoses connect to the area the condenser fan and compressor live in - most of the noise is in there).
I personally have had a PAD-121 running every night for 3 years without any issues. That model is no longer available, but the successor is: http://www.heatcontroller.com/series.php?prod &sid&c
There are plenty of options out there though, so do your research...
J
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wrote:

Wish I had known about the two hose units! :( Now that I think back, I seem to recall two hose units, but didn't realize the purpose. Unfortunately, never saw any two-hose units when I was ready to buy, and likely the PC Richards people wouldna known what they were for, either.
Good link, but website wasn't that informative--no price, EER. Any ideas? Other observations good as well. Prodigious condensate. I "prefer" to empty buckets/use the water, but it is a chore. A pump to a storage barrel would be better. The 850 watt Amana can readily fill a 5 gal pail in 24 hrs.
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Mr. P.V.\'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY
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message

What are you using the water for?
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From elsewhere, I know he's also a machinist--and so probly he uses it ( as do I ) to mix with water soluble cutting oil or synthetic instead of buying DI water...just need to add an anti-microbial..
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I'm flattered... you didn't insert the adjective "wannabee". Ahma haveta tell the group.... :)
Indeed, soluble oil, but the output is too prodigious even for that (on a maintenance basis), so I basically pour it around the plants/lawn/house.
I tried draining it right into the Fadal resevoir tank, figgered it'd be good as "makeup water", and boy was I surprised to see the tank overflow (30-35 gal!), not to mention the coolant getting awfully thin in the meantime.
So I had to stop that, and do the 5 gal bucket thing. Somewhat the pita. Each 5 gal bucket is 40 lbs, made more difficult by pulling it from an awkward location, and then tryna not spill it, and then for some distance. sheeesh..... I think NYC water is about .00001 c per gallon.
Oh well... . But, you know what they say: 00001 penny saved is .00001 penny earned. :)
--
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Mr. P.V.\'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY
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