Has anybody had problems with the Lochinvar Energy Rite 2? I have 2 of
them - one doing pool water and the other one doing the spa water. Neither
will lite. I have the box pressure at 1.2-1.4" wc with the draft inducer
running, and a total of 3.2" wc with LP gas pressure. The boiler is clean,
as are the burners, the HSI is glowing - but these things simply won't fire.
I have tried increasing both air and gas to 3.8-4.0" wc gross without
success. In addition to the hi/lo hoses running to the air proving switch
from the pressure box, there is a hose running from the box to the inlet
side of the honeywell smart valve - the manual calls it a reference hose.
If I pull this hose from the barbed fitting on the gas valve, cover the
fitting with my finger, the boiler lights every time. Lochinvar's tech
support does even recognize this particular hose - even though it is clearly
referenced in their I&O Manual.
I haven't been following this thread that closely, but we have had some
uncurable problems with the unit. At least we thought they were. It ended
up being the water flow switch on the waterside. We cracked open the bypass
and had no other problems.
Ive never worked on the pool heater models but from the pdfs they dont
seem much differant than the regular copper fin boilers.
Did you happen to have your U tube on the inlet and outlet side to see
whats happining when the valve gets 24v? The only pressure tube
problem Ive had on Lochinvars was the barbed fitting that goes into the
burner was plugged with what looked like red Loctite. I cleared it and
it fired right up. This tube that goes to the GV from the pressurized
burner box, does it go into the GV vent? What did the rep have to say
and what did they check? Does the GV have a steady voltage and just
wont open or does the voltage drop out. What are the pressures when
its tring to fire?
Its probably something stupid. One time I couldnt get a new Trane RTU
to fire. I spent about an hour taking pressure measurements and
dicking around. Then Im standing there and look over my shoulder and I
see it. The Gas pressure regulator. I checked out the vent and sure
enough it was plugged. Its easy to get wound up on the complex things
and overlook the simple ones.
I dont think its a water side problem as BP suggested. But speaking of
that, do make sure the flow switch works. It wont take long to burn up
the HX with no flow.
On Tue, 05 Sep 2006 20:29:22 GMT, "Graham Campbell"
Yep. especially since the Honeywell smart valve is anything but smart.
The Honeywell smart valve is a piece of shit. When the igniter glows
try wiggling the wires on the gas valve. If that doesn't work then
replace the valve, then replace your service company.
Well, when the reps came out to look at their boilers, they found 2 things
that could be the possible problem. One was a slight air leak from the
firebox, the othe was a bit of crud on the bottom of the hx. They suggested
that I pull and clean the hx and install a new gasket set. So today I
pulled the hx to inspect the underside of it. It wasn't spotless, but it
was clear enough to read a newspaper through the fins. In any event, since
I had it out, I thoroughly cleaned it. I'm sure that wasn't the problem
though. I'm having a new gasket kit and a new gas valve overnighted to
install them tomorrow. I'm convinced the there is a problem with the
"referencing" part of the gas valve. I can't prove it though - the only way
will be to try swapping out the valve. This is one touchy boiler - and I'm
thinking I don't much like them. If I can't overcome this problem I think
I'll recommend they switch to a Weil McLain with a stainless indirect water
heater. At least then if there is a problem, the parts are available
locally. I was really suprised that Lochinvar couldn't figure out the
problem with their own product. Thanks for all the input.
Landmark Service Co.
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