convert single to dual zone?

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wrote a bunch of stuff based on insufficient information...

This home also doubles as a home office with a substantial quantity of computer and office equipment scattered all over. What I want is a largely self-regulating system that is bright enough to dynamically overcome variances in heat loads/losses. This includes automatically reconfiguring airflow for the winter heating season so the basement won't be cold.
The main A/C problems are due to office equipment including laser printers. A single computer workstation or server can dump 2000-3000 BTU into a room when it's operating at full tilt. My main 'office' has three such machines in it (soon to be 4) and they idle 99% of the time. A laser printer can rapidly turn a small room into a sauna if you're printing off a binder full of documents. None of these loads are predictable nor constant. I would not want to size any system assuming maximum loads at all times. I'd be freezing my butt off most of the time and have even more mammoth electricity bills than I already do .
Some problems are exacerbated by afternoon sun on south-facing rooms. At least one egregious air flow issue is caused by a defective damper that needs diagnosiing and/or replacement.
None of these problems are solved by having a single thermostat 30ft away on a different floor. A more ideal solution might be to introduce a portable A/C for the 'office' rooms. Unfortunately, condo rules will not allow drilling more holes in exterior walls nor anything that smacks of a 'window' air conditioner.
As for your remarks about 1100CFM, the installer set up the system for 900CFM for the 2-ton A/C unit. I measured 1100CFM out of the registers when the air handler was set to its maximum 1400CFM limit (with A/C disabled).
According to the CFM numbers generated by a consumer-grade HVAC program, one small room here needs about a 50% air flow boost if all the equipment in the room is running full tilt. 30% appears to be doable. Under normal circumstances, that room is only 2C higher than the thermostat setpoint. Under equipment load, that differential rises to 6C which makes it near-impossible to work.
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You only have one option here... design and build your own, or move.
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wrote:

Thanks for the prompt, if somewhat disheartening, response.
It's hard to believe that nobody in this world has addressed this for a residential setting. (Any Honeywell business development manager out there interested in a new niche market?) It sounds like it should be just a more intelligent version of existing zoning systems for larger residences. Instead of a dumb on/off switch for each zone, you have, say, 256 output positions for the damper. Installation and setup costs would obviously be higher.
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Again, the simplest solution is a mini-split. the better units have inverter control and individual room thermostats, allowing the system to put "just the right amount" of cooling into the area.
With your specific situation, where you've already gotten a traditional installation, you might ask an HVAC rep about a single room mini split, and just place it in your computer/office area.
As one example, the Sanyo 12KHS71 [a] will adjust its output from 3,000 to 11,900 BTU/hr
http://us.sanyo.com/HVAC-By-System-Type-Heat-Pumps/Wall-Mounted-Heat-Pump-12KHS71
- that unit is a heat pump, which will also, duh, provide heat... Just chosen for illustration as it's one of the 120V AC versions.
[a] http://us.sanyo.com/HVAC-By-System-Type-Heat-Pumps/Wall-Mounted-Heat-Pump-12KHS71
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bp wrote:

Hi, I am an ex-Honeyweller. When I read your OP, first thing I thought was application by intelligent control,er managed by micro processors or dedicated PC, probably run on Linux OS and bunch of ATD, DTA interface controlling all the parameters on every level of the place. Just mind boggling wish list. After initial commissioning, it'll have to go thru revision after revision until it really performs as wished. Do you have unlimited resources?(time and material)
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wrote:

Or something like
http://www.smarthome.com/3086/12-Inch-Diameter-Normally-Closed-Electronic-HVAC-Air-Duct-Damper-001-00020-12RDNC/p.aspx
etc - google is your friend ( and owner )
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http://www.smarthome.com/3086/12-Inch-Diameter-Normally-Closed-Electronic-HVAC-Air-Duct-Damper-001-00020-12RDNC/p.aspx
damn Paul, I was gonna offer to do it for him for $600/room plus travel and perdiem. Window shakers are cheap at Walmarks :-)
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wrote:

How about we settle on option two where you write me a cheque for $150,000 to move :)).
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    I will trade you a $ 150,000 check for title / deed to your property.
    Are you familiar with the First National Bank of the Duchy of Grand Fenwick ? Good bank ....
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On Sat, 6 Aug 2011 07:43:11 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

You missed reading an article. No window A/C units allowed here. I already have plenty of waste heat available in the winter.
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    That's all stormy ever worked on, so he thinks it's an answer to everything.
    I'm sure your condo association with the 'no window units' rule will understand.
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