Dot & Dab


I am refurbing my sisters bathroom (old stone terrace). When the old tiles were removed a sizeable patch, 2ft x 2ft, of plaster has come away down to the bricks approx 1" deep. My plastering skills leave a great deal to be desired! I realise that my plaster surface doesnt have to be perfect for tiling onto but for other reasons I think it would be better and easier dotted and dabbed. What do I use to stick the PB to the brick? Can it be bought in small (readymixed) quantities as I will not need a lot?
Cheers
John
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John wrote:

I could not recommend filling in a gap in ordinary plaster with dot-n- dab. You could square off the old hole and find even more plaster came off. Or try to cut a funny shaped piece of PB to fit. I would pour/paint/inject watered-down PVA behind the edges of the old plaster to ensure it is well fixed, then PVA the bricks and old plaster, then fill using bonding plaster. Use the old plaster around to guide a straight edge over the new plaster to level off. It does not need to be smooth. Its actually quite easy. You apply the plaster by pushing up and against to wall to make it "stick". You could do it in 2 layers of half-inch each, score and PVA between layers. If you want plaster board, use stuff called dry-wall adhesive (bags are cheap), or some bonding plaster with a bit of PVA mixed in. Or even car body filler, no-more-nails at a stretch.
Simon.
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sm_jamieson wrote:

Car body filler? Are you kidding? Cures much too quickly
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wrote:

Hah ! I was only saying that as I thought someone else might soon ! Never used it myself. Simon.
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sm_jamieson wrote:

You don't know what you're missing
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sm_jamieson wrote:

Yes, as Simon says it is quite easy especially if the wall will be tiled afterwards.
Use well watered down pva to thoroughly seal the surface and run it into any edges etc.. Use, say, 1 part pva to 4 parts water depending on the porosity of the wall.
Then just before plastering, paint the whole area again with slightly watered down pva, say 3 parts pva to 1 part water as a bonding. Apply the plaster before the pva dries.
If you want to dot and dab and put plasterboard up, then Pinkgrip or similar can be used for a small area but would probably be uneconomic for a larger area compared to the bags of powder.
Steve
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tiles
Bonding plaster,no need to use plasterboard. Just start slapping it into the hole till it becomes proud of the hole,then get a piece of wood wider than the hole and draw it over the hole to bring the bonding level with the existing plaster.
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George wrote:

And then wait for a couple of days before you can tile over it. PB is quicker
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