Had various prices for plastering, and one guy came on very good recomendation and has come in with a cracking price, so the jobs his!! ( I'll do the labouring) He wants the rendered walls (old outer leaf) dot n dabbed though as he prefers to do this than render onto the dash. I'm going to do it tomorrow, never done it before but it sounds piss easy !! thats where I get nervous, any pitfalls? or is it as "easy as it says on the tin"?
It's easier than it says on the tin :-p
You've got quite a long time to use up your adhesive, but don't mix too much or it can get a bit hectic, one full bag will probably fix three or four 6X3 sheets, but it all depends on how far out the walls are.
Make sure the walls you are D&D'ing are free from protruding nails, screws, washing line hooks etc and get a spirit level and length of timber to use as a straight edge both upright and horizontally...get these ready before you start mixing, and also some packers to raise the boards up off the floor slightly and to keep them tight up to the ceiling while the adhesive goes off. If you've any switches, sockets etc to dryline around, offer the board up to the wall, make sure it's tight up to the ceiling and abutting any already fixed boards and give the board a few bangs with a clenched hand in the vicinity of the switch behind, the steel box will leave an imprint for you to cut around. Do this before you apply any adhesive to the board obviously!
DL adhesive stinks like boiled shit when you first mix it.
It stinks even more when you've forgot to dump the cleaning trowl container water, when you come to clean the mixer whisk in it. :-(*)
How do you know what boil..........................................
Actually I'f rather not know.
Are you saying your plasterer expects you to attach the plaster board and he will skim it? If so I'd say use a long straight edge to make sure its all straight at the bottom so the skirting fits without any bova. Its not pis easy but a lot easier than real plastering.
Yes but only one wall in each room ( old outer wall of the house, as it's pebbedashed)
Cheers for the pointers, what sort of consistency am I looking to mix the stuff too?
Slightly stiffer than normal plaster but less than wall tile adhesive.
put blobs on the board, not the wall...if the wall is very dry, splash some water on it before you start mixing, so that some of the suction is reduced and to give a better bond.
Nice one, cheers :-)
Boiled shit.
Now sureley (no I wont stop calling you Shirley) that would depend on the consistency of the shit to begin with?
:-)
Phil L's suggestion to hit the drywall against switches etc to mark before cutting access holes-- I saw a suggestion on an American site about drywall preparation: mark the switch face with lipstick or somesuch and then push the drywall against the wall.
The better solution is to take the switch off revealing the backbox? pushing the board hard against it will produce an indentation of it on the board.
I think that's just an excuse for when their mates catch them carrying cosmetics in the toolbox.
Owain
Switches arent on yet anyhoo, so it should be a doddle :-) It'll have to be tomorrow now, no delivery from the builders yard yet
Cheers for the pointer on putting the blobs on the board, I'll use a garden sprayer to dampen the wall as I go. :-)
We have just had a wall done by a plasterer. He put the blobs on the wall...
One other thing he did was to put a coating of PVA on the wall first, which was left to dry for some hours.
Roy
Thats the method shown on the product website, but I can see it being easier to lay the board agaist sommat like a chair, butted bottom end to the wall, dot the board and lift it in to place,
I'll let you know how it works tomorrow :-)
Each to his own I suppose, I never put dabs on the wall, but neither do i use PVA, there's enough adhesion in the erm.. adhesive. Putting dabs on the wall gives you less time to get all the dabs on, and get the board centralised and in place etc before it starts drying in, this is why he used PVA, if he'd just put the dabs on the board, he needen't have bothered with the PVA because P-board doesn't soak up moisture like brick/blockwork
"Phil L"
Yes, I wasn't suggesting one way was right or wrong - just an observation.
I have no idea on this subject - plastering is the only bit of DIY I don't do! Amazing the lack of part time plastering courses in this area - I'm sure someone could make a killing running DIY plastering courses.
Roy
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