Can you get a (double) shaver socket setup with the transformer separated, i.e. above bathroom in loft ? (that would be OK for the regs). Or, where to get sockets without transformer and a separate suitable transfomer (I guess you need one per socket for isolation reasons). I don't want to cut into the wall do bury a transformer, and want flush mounting chrome sockets. Cheers, Simon.
shaver socket with separate transformer
Oct 23, 2006
18 Replies
I managed to getr away with a simple deep backing box. Well tills SHE wanted it moved, then I used a pushfit plastic box and cut a hole in the back where the transformer sticks out.
But of course you could use a remote one I suppose.
Doubt it; but whatever you end up with it will still need to burying surely? A shaver transformer isn't all that much deeper than a conventional plug socket IIRC?
David
Not AFAIK.
The transformer is switched by inserting the shaver plug (why they hum and may overheat if you leave the shaver plugged in). Although it's not impossible to do this with a split design, it's more complex than just a supply to the transformer, then running the output to a minimal socket.
What do you want to run from this?
Most of the things that can be run from these are available in re-chargeable form. Just charge it elsewhere in the house once a week and happily shave/toothbrush/whatever in the bathroom or elsewhere.
Another alternative would be a shaverlight.
I would guess, shaver (recharge sometimes, and for guests) and elec toothbrush, recharge since it won't run off mains.
Yes of course you can. It's a question of convenience like most things in our cushy lives. And while I'm doing the bathroom, may as well kit it out properly. I may only put in one socket though !
No good, since the one my parents have only charged when the light was on. I have never seen a shaverlight that didn't look crap.
Simon.
Assuming you can source the non isolated sockets you want which conform to regs, I think your easiest way would be to buy (cheap) isolated ones as donors for the transformers. CPC, etc, don't appear to sell the transformers on their own - unless I've simply not seen them.
What is the problem with fitting a deeper back box? (they don't need to be taht much deeper than the one required for an non transformed socket)
Try these:
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supply power to the socket without the light needing to be on, and look a fair bit nicer than many.
I have one of these, which IMHO doesn't look bad - at least isn't the boxy type which you're probably referring to?
David
We've got our electric toothbrush permanently plugged into one of these
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(link goes to TLC-Direct)
You say that you don't want to cut into the wall (to mount a transformer) but you want a flush mounted socket??? There's got to be something in the wall so it may as well be one of these as they're not much deeper than a normal socket.
John.
You are having a laugh, aren't you?
A standard shaver socket is very low profile (and single sized, rather than double, too).
An isolating shaver outlet is the size of a double decker bus.
Christian.
A non-isolated shaver socket will normally fit within the thickness of plaster, especially if there are tiles. There is no way an isolated type will fit. You're lucky if it doesn't sit in the cavity of the wall.
Christian.
Standalone BS3535 isolating transformers:
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don't have a 230V-230V, so the output would be 110V, which is probably no hardship in this application, but check your toothbrush. 50VA should be fine, I'd imagine, unless someone knows the regs give a minimum VA rating.
Christian.
Note that bonding could become a bit of an issue.
Personally, I would not bond to earth through the supply cable (use 2 core non earthed cable), but would include the fitting in the supplementary equipotential bonding. I have no idea if that is what the regs recommend and you may wish to check with the IET.
Christian.
I have one of these in the bathroom, flush, in a 47mm steel backbox:
ie, not all that much deeper than a conventional plug socket - certainly not so much more as to make it a big issue, anyway. So, still not sure what the OP's problem is?
David
Exactly. A 47mm backbox ensures you need to dig out brick/block/rubble, unlike a non-isolated socket. The double size plate is also less than inconspicuous.
Doesn't want to/can't dig out the wall deeper than the plaster, presumably.
Christian.
Regs give a max rating for a shaver socket. I think it's something like 25VA, but I don't have them on me to check. The regulation is not good -- off-load, they are around
270V. The instructions usually warn to run low power things like chargers with wide ranging voltage rating on the 120V side. Of course, no one sees these because the electrician chucks them out before the householder moves in.;-)The sockets have a self-resetting thermal trip in the transformer windings, which in effect forms a very slow blow fuse. This might be a requirement of the BS, as they all seem to do it.
So for reasons of convenience, rather than plug it in outside the bathroom, you'd sooner chase out the plaster for wire and backbox, drill into the loft, crawl into the loft and wire up an iso, wire it into a socket in the bathroom, replaster and redecorate it all. Then run your appliances on 240v + upto 20%, at which voltage breakdowns will be a problem.
Maybe I just have a strange idea of convenience.
NT
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