your oldest power tool

[DerbyDad03]

Many of us have a problem judging length. ;-)

[dpb]

On 1/21/2018 11:54 AM, Puckdropper wrote: ...

That's good there's no rush since it's probably been nearly 15 years since I've had one functional. :)

I did buy one off eBay a few years ago that is still functional but it has some motor "issues" -- it runs, but not well and I've not taken the time to delve into it much.

There's one w/ the cover off been sitting on a bench for years in one of the garages--I glanced at it today and it is indeed the rotor end that's the most worn of all; does look like it's straight gear but it's milled directly in the rotor shaft; not tied onto the end. Not sure if doing anything with that would be feasible unless could fill in the missing metal and recut...

That one was never finished tear-down; still grease-covered (with a lot of accumulated dirt/sawdust since :) ) so I'll have to clean it up or get one of the other sets of parts to make pictures of and take some measurements.

I have a Makita that is about closest there is on market to match but they took a 4" machine and just put 3" rollers on it so it's too wide for the belt and unbalanced left-right because weight isn't centered over the belt. The little 3-wheeler looks kinda' cute and might be nice, but they're just 3x21 so all the 24" belt stock is useless...

I've requested numerous times B&D bring the 7440 back with a little better gearing, but never got anywhere obviously.

[Puckdropper]

dpb wrote in news:p43c2s$1s05$ [e-mail]:

Regarding the motor gear: the other option you have is to grind off the gear teeth and start with a smooth shaft. It'd be much easier to cut a gear with that bore than it would to cut a gear on that shaft. Especially if we're talking about filling in new metal, where there's very little chance of things being a consistent hardness.

Puckdropper

[dpb]

...[snip for brevity]... dpb

Indeed; it would be teeny to cut all the teeth down but to make concentric and round wouldn't be too hard. Oh, but then there would be very little room left between new ID and existing OD to match existing size to match up with the driven...but, I suppose, still at least in realm of possible...

[Clare Snyder]

How about pressing out the existing shaft and replacing with a new one??

[dpb]

I'd guess that not possible from the rotor that I suspect the windings and all are such that wouldn't be able to get the shaft out without destroying it...but, I can look at how it's assembled.

[dpb]

On 1/22/2018 10:43 AM, Clare Snyder wrote: ...

'membered model number off by a digit -- it's 7450 instead 7440.

Here's bestest schematic found...gives an idea how it's built; the rotor

19 and gears 16,18 are the weak links; 5 and 10 never show any significant wear at all...

[Bob La Londe]

On 1/18/2018 1:01 PM, Electric Comet wrote: > mine is a skil saw from the 70s i think > > seems to run fine > > am curious because i wonder if they can become unsafe to use in the > electrical sense and what to do besides replacemnt > > guessing that replacement parts might be hard to come by >

I don't know. Maybe an old Skill jig saw I picked up as a toss in to sweeten the deal on a grinder and drill press private purchase.

My tools have always been used hard. Most of the stuff I bought my first few years as a contractor has been worn out and tossed. Sure I could have fixed some of it, but it wasn't worth the time. Even the good stuff. My time was more valuable getting jobs done for customers.

Now I'd fix it because I spend a lot of time watching CNC mills and routers do my job for me. Nah, not really. If I am not programming, I am designing. If I am not designing I am fixing a machine. If I'm not fixing a machine I'm doing some off the machines fabrication or doing some manual machining.

Now, when it comes to hand tools and machinist tools I have some old stuff. I've got a few precision measuring instruments and misc tools that might date back to the late 1800s. Certainly WW1 era. Some of them I still use. No bull.