You Hav To See This Man's Work To Believe It - honest

Sep 11, 2006 45 Replies

Different strokes, of course, but that's exactly the opposite of what Frank Klausz said at a recent woodwhacker club meeting. He counciled starting on softer woods and working your way up to the hard woods. I suppose the general procedural objective for any hand cut work - patience, sharp tools and don't force things. Oh, and learning a wood's properties on your project stock is not a good idea.

I'd love to see a video of that guy cutting some of his joints. The thing that I've never been able to make any real headway on in my own skills is speed - particularly in the fine hand work. I don't know if it's because I enjoy it so much that I want it to last or if I'm just speed impaired. Probably both.

R

I do wonder a bit at his choice of wood on that diamond corners piece. The diamonds pretty much disappear in the top half of the piece. That may just be the photography, but if I could do a joint like that I'd choose wood for the box that was consistent from top to bottom. That wood there was beautiful enough on it's own a simple miter with hidden reinforcement would have been my choice.

Plus there's a smidge of dirt under his fingernail in one of the photos. That's about all I can find to criticize.

-Leuf

Which one?

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"Lee Michaels" wrote in news:KKednVbth- OxcZjYnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com:

That stuff is more art than anything else.

Reminds me of the story about a fellow that presented pictures of a dresser as an indication of his skills at a job interview. The dresser was nice with dovetailed drawers, etc. but was rather plain looking.

"That's nice but not very impressive" said the interviewer. "How long did that take you to complete?"

"2 years" said the applicant proudly.

"2 years and this is all you have to show?"

"Why yes. All I had was an old tree and a pocket knife."

Bruce Barnett wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@grymoire.com:

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would imagine the joints were carefully measured and cut, then the pieces were steamed or soaked to soften them so the wood woulg by pliable and soft for assembly.

Here's my solution:

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two black triangles are actually cone shaped, the white triangle is a cone shaped hole. The joint goes together by sliding the cone on the left tenon through the U-shaped tunnel at the base of the right tenon. I didn't try it out, so I'm not sure if it works this way.

Wolfgang

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