For good grade wood, my Forrest WWII
For stuff that I am less inclined to use a quality blade for like OSB,
exterior ply, particle board, or wood from disassembled furniture or
uses (nails possible) I use one of my crappy combos, a Delta blade, a
Crapsman blade (better than the delta), or a freud (not crappy but not a
For building furniture I have only used a Forrest WWII 40 tooth regular
kerf blade. I have used this blade for the last 15 years, actually I
have 3 of these. One has a flat grind for cutting flat bottom groves
for drawer bottoms when using 1/4" plywood.
I did buy a Systematic rip blade about 17 years ago and even on an under
powered Craftsman chose to use a Systematic Combo blade for all cutting.
I switched to a cabinet saw in 1999 and have used nothing but the
Forrest WWII blades since. I do use a Forrest DadoKing for cutting dado's.
I have a new-old-stock freud that cross cuts and rips fine.
I find that keeping the blade very clean makes a big diff
I still need to look at the forrest blades.
I don't cut wood with metal in it on the tablesaw. I have a handheld
detector to make sure. If I still doubtful I get out the skilsaw.
On Wednesday, January 14, 2015 at 3:38:45 PM UTC-6, Electric Comet wrote:
Because we keep using longer and longer boards. Longer boards, longer penc
ils, longer outfeed tables, longer tape measures... the list goes on. At
our advanced age, our once youthful "longer" attributes don't matter, anymo
re, so we have to create new ones, substitutes to compensate.
Don't forget the hand saws :
Rip saw has little or no kerf other than the blade. The teeth are
in-line. They can cut down the lines of grain - almost like a wedge.
Cross-cut has alternate teeth bent right or left - back and forth
and it cuts a wider kerf to prevent jamming of the blade by end grain.
I'm sure the large rotaries are very close in design.
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