Ok, at our local HS, we have an open woodshop
class - tho no instruction is ever given unless
I need to rip some boards down to 2" and others
to 3". Each set of boards will vary in length
from 24 - 60" inches.
The school shop has an old Delta TS. Last
week and and other student checked the
splitter. The thing was NOT centered on
the blade and was leaning intowards the
fence. We somehow got it aligned by working
it up and down. But I still didn't trust
it that night.
I was wondering if there was a good way
I could safely rip my boards on this saw
if the splitter is still "out of whack".
We do have some hold downs and featherboards.
I could see fashioning a hold down that would
keep the boards down on the table. Then pushing
(with push sticks) the stock thru the cut.
Also, I could also see just ripping on the
bandsaw as well.
Anyother good ideas? I searched my books
and without a doubt a splitter is the way
to go and would be if the machine is mine but
I'm looking for an equally safe alternative.
Are you a student in this class I gather?
If so, I would suggest it's time to ask for some help--first to get the
machine set up properly and second to get some (hopefully) competent
instruction/demonstration on the use of the saw itself.
2" is really not that bad a width for ripping w/ a push stick and 5' or
less is short enough that it can be handled reasonably well although an
outfeed support would be useful.
I would <not> use the saw with the splitter until the splitter is set
properly and is not loose where it could be moved manually. I'd rather
rip w/o it than in that condition.
Personally, I'd take the splitter off--I've never found need for one for
anything other than really sorry stuff like wet construction lumber that
moves like crazy...
I just didn't want to make that particular recommendation to what
appeared to be a shop student...
It sounds like a very poorly run shop/program, however. :(
The task is even easier with the blade set slightly taller than the
work, and swapping the push sticks for push BLOCKS, jointer style.
Yes, the blade will chew up the bottom of the push block, but that's why
they're cheap. Blocks are even cheaper when you make them in the shop,
with mouse pads glued to the bottom.
While I prefer a splitter to be in place, I've used this method very
comfortably without a splitter many times. The thinnest I've ripped
this way was 1/8" wide (with a zero clearance insert).
I start with a solid strip, which is soon slit all over the place.
There is no "snatching" or other resistance to the blade. The blade
chews at the bottom of the grip. When the grip wears off, sand or
scrape the remnants off and attach a new grip with contact cement.
I don't even bother to add the rear "hook" any more, the rubber does a
fine job providing traction. My latest batch of shop made blocks are
about the 3"x6" on the bottom, about 1/3 the length of the one in the
photo, with similar handles. I rout a quick dado in the base, as Murphy
specifies that nails or screws would definitely find the blade.
You could also buy commercially available G-RRIPPERs, or use standard
"jointer" style push blocks rather than making them.
Using the blocks allows the operator to safely keep pressure on the work
to hold it against the fence. One block should always be against the
work. Whenever possible, I still use an MJ or shop-made splitter, which
are low enough to allow blocks to pass over. When ripping very thin
strips, I'll often stand to the side of the saw, jointer-style.
First remove the insert and make sure that the splitter is properly attached
to the saw and tightened down. Other than that, splitters have been known to
get bent out of alignment and it should not be a big thing to
bend/shape/push it back to where it properly belongs.Generally speaking, if
you can accomplish the cut with the splitter in place and with normal
pressure, and it is not loose, it is more than likely performing its
Then he should not make the cut. Period. There is no safe way if you KNOW
the fence or splitter is out of whack. You fix it, remove it, or go
My tablesaw kicks back every time I use it. Should I get a face guard?
How about a chest protector?
I hope that is a joke. It should not kick back at all.
Mine did occasionally (it shot a piece of wood through the wall, onto a
couch 8 feet on the other side of the wall) until I got a microsplitter (or
whatever they call it) Haven't had a kickback since.
Once in a while the wood will pull the splitter out, but that probably means
I would have had nasty kickback without the splitter.
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