I'm finally ready to consider the inside finishing of my new 24x30 dedicated
workshop. For any semblance of heat in the NC winter, I need to put some
kind of ceiling up to keep the heat from scrambling out of the ridge vents
up top. My initial thought is to use 1/4" luan plywood, stapled to the
trusses' lower chords. I also thought about drywall. Any good ideas, pros
or cons, thoughts or rants?
I don't know anything about carpentry, but that doesn't stop me from giving
Cheap paneling is probably the most inexpensive material. I have never seen
it used on a ceiling, so there is probably a good reason not to.
3/8" rough sawn plywood, also called roughtex. Most any
decent lumber company will carry it.
Rent a panel lifter and if you don't have one, buy a BIG
staple gun that can shoot the larger staples.(1-2")
Jim Murphy wrote:
Sheetrock "may" be needed to meet fire code. I'd check with your
insurance agent before trying luan. I'd also add 6" or more of
insulation. I'm planning on 8-12" here in SC. Once I clear enough
floorspace for scaffolding or ladders to work on the 12' ceilings, the
ones that already have lights and power outlets:-(
I would recommend the sheet rock and insulation.
1. Its not expesive
2. It's fire resistant
3. If you do puncture it its a easy fix as well.
4. I have been told its fire code around here.
opinions are like A@#wholes everyone has one! :)
No question in my mind either, sheet rock, period!
A buddy on mine cheeped out and used 1/4" luan plywood on his ceiling. A
year later he screwed sheet rock up after tearing the warped plywood out.
This is one job you want to do once, do it right!
What, no tongue and groove bead board? Come on, you're a
I'd use 1/4 luan, but I'd nail or screw it. I wouldn't trust staples
up over my head.
Also, make sure you mark where those trusses are before you cover them
- it's quite handy to be able to screw in a hanger or something to the
ceiling. Or your DC pipe. Or lights.
I used drywall after insulating. The first winter it was unfinished.
No way to warm it up. After insulating and doing the drywall I can
usually get by with turning the heat on for about a half hour or so
then turning it off and I'm OK for most of the day. Exceptions for
the coldest days. North Mississippi.
Drywall finishes smooth so dust doesn't cling excessively. I painted
mine white and the floor light seemed to really increase with the same
fixtures as compared to when it was unfinished.
Only downside in my view is having to float the drywall. I can do it
but hate it.
In a recent magazine article, I saw an idea for cutting the drywall in
strips and laying them between the ceiling joists, suspended by cleats or
battens fastened to the lower edge of the joists. It didn't mention how to
treat the short drywall joints at the ends of the strips, but some cross
blocking with similar cleats/battens should do it. No taping or joint
compound required; provides utilities access advantage of a drop ceiling but
no headspace is lost; fluorescent lighting fixtures can be installed between
joists in place of some of the drywall strips; drywall strips can easily be
replaced if damaged; much cheaper than a suspended ceiling; arguably easier
to install than full 4'x8' drywall sheets; bottom of joists remain exposed
to hang things from (however, respect their structural integrity and load
capacity); drywall, cleats/battens and bottom of joists can be painted for
light reflectivity before or after installation. Sounded like a win-win to
me. Note that where ceiling drywall is required by code, this approach may
not be acceptable.
I used foil faced foam board. It was easy for one man and a 'deadman' to
handle. I also insulated between the rafters but I don't know if you want
to go to much extent. I have seldom regretted doing too good of a job.
Got rafters or studs?
I put 16" wide pieces of 1 1/2" rigid foam between the studs and then used
drywall screws to cover it with (very cheap) white sort-of-wood paneling...
It made a nice quiet place out of a very loud room and keeps the heat out a bit
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