On 19 July, 12:59, email@example.com wrote:
That tends to round the corners, so it's good for bare edges, but not
if you're trying to make butt joints.
I make my display cases with 45° butted mitres. I can saw these on the
bandsaw, but they still need polishing up to 400 grit wet & dry if
they're to be invisible, even after solvent welding.
On Mon, 19 Jul 2010 04:45:52 -0700 (PDT), Andy Dingley
I bought acrylic doors for an entertainment centre that were cut to
size on a tablesaw. By experimentation, I found that I could polish
the edges by using a hand scraper to get rid of the blade marks and
then a polishing wheel in a drill to finish them off. I was pleased to
find out that it was a very fast process. Maybe not the established
procedure, but it worked well for me.
You're welcome Doug. After first trying the process of increasingly
finer grits of sandpaper and then using the polishing compound, I
realized that impatience would get to me long before any edges were
polished. So, I looked for a shortcut.
It's been a few years since I had to do that, but the last time I did I
smoothed the edges as best I could with a file before digging out the
sandpaper. Took a lot less time than it would have to do everything with
sandpaper, but I'll surely give the scraper a try the next time I have to do
this. I expect it to be quite a bit faster than files.
I did the same project many years ago and offer the following tips in
answer to your questions.
1 . There are 3 techniques used to bond acrylic plastics together
depending on strength requirements, they are capillary, soak cementing
or reactive. The capillary method can be accomplished using ethylene
dichoride applied with a hyperdermic syringe. The reason for the
syringe applicator is neatness counts. Spills away from the seem will
show. Syringes are not easy to obtain as they have other nefarious
2 and 3. No idea.
Try reaching the acrylic manufacturers such as Rohm and Hass, DuPont
and many others. They usually can supply booklets or web sites with
details of fabrication which should authoritatively answer all your
Automotive tail light assemblies used (and maybe still are) to made of
cast acrylic plastics.
I recall a model maker neighbor used laquer thinner to bond plastics,
but that's been fifty years or so ago.
I would suggest visiting a big hobby shop. I was in one recently and
saw a rack filled with specialized adhesives and a counter manned by
As to the wooden base, might you rout a groove to take the plastic?
Recessing the box into the base might serve to hide the joint and the
1. Methylene dichloride. Online hobby supplies may be able to help. And a
GLASS syringe - the plastic ones weld themselves into a useless lump almost
instantly! OTOH - a fine-tipped artist's brush works OK for small jobs.
2. If you can cut grooves for the acrylic to sit in, cyanoacrylate glue
should work well. Paint some Pacer Technology "Zip Kicker" (hobby supplies
again) onto the acrylic, let it dry for a few minutes, run the glue into the
groove and assemble immediately - the glue will set rock-hard in about a
3. Depends entirely on size, construction, anticipated stresses, and whether
or not you're right with Jesus. Talk to the supplier.
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Once a know-it-all troll, always a know-it-all troll!
and as usual, Full of Shit 61% of the time!
On Tue, 20 Jul 2010 08:58:59 -0700 (PDT), Andy Dingley
Greenhouse friends of mine from the 1970s use acetone exclusively for
their orchid containers. All solvents which attack acrylic will damage
the surface and most work really well for glue. Acetone is thin, quick
drying, and has a very nice capillary action. <shrug>
Exercise ferments the humors, casts them into their proper channels,
throws off redundancies, and helps nature in those secret distributions,
without which the body cannot subsist in its vigor, nor the soul act
with cheerfulness. -- Joseph Addison, The Spectator, July 12, 1711
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