Congratuations on your new SawStop! I'm not good for much more than 100
but I could help you just about anytime after May 1, if you haven't already
got it installed by then.
Just give the word.
Let's see: straight bits, and ones that can be used for plunging, and
roundover bits (for other projects).
As I don't have a router nor any rounter bits at all, I am curious what
other bits come to your mind as "simply indispensable for this kind of
Another "template/jig" job I was thinking of was to make some custom
handles for my antique Stanley planes--once I get caught up, of course...
Of course, why stop at just the handle... ; ) It's been a long time since
I mentioned that my original goal was to build an 1840's milstrel-style
banjo... but look where it got me.
For the template in that picture, showing one method of routing a curved
pattern in the feet, you will need router bits you can use with
With router bits, only buy one when you need it for a particular job and
you will soon have an arsenal of bits that are useful for what you do,
instead of buying in "sets" and ending up with a drawer full of router
bits you never use.
Here's an example of a flush trim patter bits:
Try to get a couple of the longest you can find. You'll notice that one
has the bearing close to the shank, one close to the end. Both will do
the same job, but one will be handier for certain applications than the
If you do any work where you need to repeat curves and profiles in
projects, get both, and buy the best you can afford. Cheap router bits
will ruin a lot of expensive wood.
Amana is a good brand also, with some of the ones I have still going
strong after more than a decade of use:
IMO, the 1/2" shank bits work the best with flush trim/pattern bits,
with less chatter and a smoother cut.
Yes, I already decided to go that route (buying what I need, and
avoiding cheap bits). I followed your links below and I was surprised
to see a double bearing bit (don't think I've seen one before). I'm
sure I could learn a thing or three more just browsing Amana's site.
I read most of Bill Hylton's book ("Woodworking with the Router")a few
years ago. Thank you for your suggestions!
A double bearing bit has a number of advantages and is usually cheaper
than two single bearing bits. As well as being able to remove the
upper or lower bearing for a specific routing purpose, you can usually
buy bearings of different diameters which lets the router bit cut
I'm going to try cutting them by hand first (following what I can do
drilling with a DP).
Thanks for the heads up... I did some reading about mortisers tonight.
"My name is Bill and I think I have a machine problem...." : )
It's a good-looking bench, and a well-done drawing!
I looked at your shop drawing, and suggest that you consider adding an
under-bench shelf so you can set a tool aside without having it in your
way on top of the bench or behind you on the saw top.
Some time back I took a shot (with SketchUp) to design a 2x4 and 2x6
bench (not anywhere near as elegant as yours) and incorporated a pair of
shelves so I could keep tools and parts handy for the kinds of projects
I like to do, and get a little more out of the area taken up by the bench:
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/LLJ/ (bottom of page)
On Sun, 18 Apr 2010 03:15:15 -0400, the infamous "Bill"
Not bad! Suggestion: put a chrome cover on the top lip of that skirt
board. Your foot will natually migrate up there and rest at times when
you're at the bench.
Then find a copy of Aldren Watson's book _Hand Tools: Their Ways and
Workings_ or _Glossary of Woodworking Terms_ by A.W. Lewis. Iffen
you're feeling like a -real- newbie that day, get _The Complete
Idiot's Guide to Woodworking_ by Reed Karen.
I used glued and pegged tenons in mine.
Roughsaw to the outline, file to suit, as it has always been done.
Either bowsaur (my specialty ;) or hand saur.
Perfect excuse to buy a pair of Nicholsons, a #48 and a #49
A book burrows into your life in a very profound way
because the experience of reading is not passive.
I like that idea. In his bench, Garrett Hack uses those on his
"intermediate rails" (on the short sides).
He uses a steel rod in a groove on each of the long sides.
I already made that plunge (towards my plan of carving a banjo neck).
I think if I shaped the feet by hand, that they would end up looking hand
I think I may try Swingman's template/jig suggestion for the feet. Thank
you for your help!
Nice looking. One design consideration -- make sure you have enough
room under the stretchers to be able to easily sweep out. You will
probably end up with a shelf resting on those stretchers, and if the
bottom is too low, it will be a PITA to clean under. DAMHIKT! Yours
look to be high enough, but at least think about that and maybe mock
something up before finalizing the design.
Wasting away wood to create this seems a shame. Why not just laminate
a pad of the same wood as the trestle foot at all four ends, possibly
routing a cove at the interior end before glue-up if you want that
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
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