At my site linked to below is a almost-to-scale model (pdf and SketchUp) of
the 20' by 20' garage
shop I am trying to assemble, as viewed from the omitted garage door.
Ignore the water purification system in the corner ; )
The workbench design and tools are mostly accurate only to size.
The BS has a mobile base (not shown), the TS will get one too.
Besides for the 240V outlet on the one wall, there is 120V outlet on each
wall (I think
I should check and see whether they are wired on one circuit).
Please let me know if you can think of any suggestions or "rules" I'm
breaking.
This is my first draft . I really wanted to check and see how the 7'
workbench will fit!
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite /
Bill
You need more outlets. The more the better but at least 3 per wall IMO - I
hate cords strung everywhere. At least two circuits, more better.
The TS in the center is good but you need power for it. As I said, I hate
cords strung everywhere so the outlet for my TS is in the ceiling. There
are both 240v and 120v. Yes, a cord hangs down but at least it isn't always
getting stepped on.
Be sure you have at least eight feet in front of and behind the TS.
You'll undoubtedly be adding bench top tools which implies more benches.
When I build same I incorporate electrical outlets into them so that other
tools or adjacent benches will have conveniently placed outlets.
You need an area to store stuff...sheet goods, lumber, work in progress,
etc.
If I were to make a suggestions to your shop layout it would be the
addition of a workbench that can be rolled around the shop. When you
are working on the table saw you can roll the workbench up to the table
saw to a comfortable point where you can pick up, saw, put down. When
you are working on the drill press the bench rolls you can stage the
pieces to be drilled and have a place to put the items after drilling.
If you plan it correctly the rolling workbench can become an out feed
for the table saw when you are ripping long pieces of wood or plywood.
It eliminates a lot of unnecessary movement of parts around the shop.
I have one and am considering adding a second so I can adjust the
rolling benches to create instant work stations for which ever tools I
am using.
I have all of my tools on wheels since my work shop is shared with my
cars, the rolling benches and tools can be moved to the side so the cars
can be put into the garage.
My suggestions:
1. You'll need substantial wall space for shelves and cabinets to
store power hand tools, fasteners, finishes, hand tools, blades and
bits, and , of course, the Rigid Tool catalog with the girls in
bikinis. Some of this can go under the bench or other power tools,
but plan for it now.
2. You'll need an outfeed table for the TS; plan it now. It could be
a mobil bench with storage.
3. Wood and sheet goods storage.
4. I much prefer having my bench away from the wall so I can work from
all sides.
5. Compressor.
I have a small shop (half of a two car garage, ~ 10' X 19'). The
number one drawback is: storage. I'm constantly having to move tools
and stuff from the bench to the saw back to the bench, &tc. I think
planning for storage is more important than tool layout, at least at
first.
-Zz
More outlets. Lots more. My 3 car garage started with bare walls, one
lightbulb and three outlets.
Two were in the ceiling to plug in garage door openers. I now have one (42"
above floor) every 4
feet spread over 4 circuits. Some of the duplexes have been upgraded to quads
so I can leave things
plugged in near the benches. I have only 1 220 outlet, but started to install
2 more, when SWMBO
and I decided we would move in the next year. Upgrading the wiring was a no
brainer. My son is in
a rental house, and he has added one circuit with 6 outlets plus a 220 (all
surface mount) to the
garage there. Took less than a day.
Lots of lights, including local lighting. Your probably need 4-6 sets of
fluorescent over head,
plus spot lighting. I buy those adjustable lights with a clamp on plastic base
at the thrift store
for $1. Throw away the base, and make one out of wood by drilling a 1/2 inch
hole in a 2x6x18
scrap. That's heavy enough to act as a base and move anywhere. I also drill
holes in convenient
wood structures for permanent positions for the lamps. I have 4 of these in the
shop. Get some of
the HF magnetic base lights when they go on sale for $5. Helluva deal, and work
just as well as the
$15-20 ones in the other catalogs.
Put in some overhead cabinets for storage. Install a window behind the
workbench. Insulate the
garage door. Put the trash can outside and use a 5 gallon plastic bucket
inside. Floor space is
precious. Put every large tool on wheels. Replace the base of every tool that
just stands on legs
with some sort of roll around cabinet. All a base does is hold the tool up in
the air. A cabinet
does that plus doubles as storage. Hang shit on the outside of the roll around
bases. You need
all the storage you can get. Get a lathe and put it on wheels. Build a lathe
tool box on the base.
Take a picture of the clean floor. This is the last time you will see it,
especially if you get a
lathe.
Build a chimney cupboard/tower to hold small tools like a grinder, bench top
sander, etc that can be
screwed to a plywood base and mounted in your workbench vise when needed. Floor
space is precious.
A couple years ago I broke down and bought the Sears 80th anniversary ball
bearing tool cabinet
while it was very seriously on sale (close out). I'm amazed at how much crap I
can stick in it for
storage. I still have to use auxiliary drawers to hold hand planes and scrapers
and other goodies,
but one of those rolling toolboxes is not a bad idea. You need more storage
than you think.
I'd love to have a utility sink and commode (or even a urinal) in my shop.
Maybe the next one. I
live just outside Houston. I put AC in the shop several years ago and think it
was one of the
smartest things I ever did. My tools don't rust any more, and I can work in
comfort when it is
100F and 100% humidity. In winter I just use a couple space heaters. It's not
enough to really
warm the place, but gets it into the 50's.
Don't let the kids or SWMBO use any part of the garashop for storage. They know
that floor space is
precious, and will become squatters if allowed. You're the Captain. The Shop
is your Ship. Be
prepared to repel boarders.
Regards,
Roy
On 2/7/2010 11:29 AM, Roy wrote:
<snipped tons of great advice>
This is absolutely one of the handiest damn things you can have in your shop,
and I don't think it occurs to most people during the planning phase. It's one
of the first things I installed when I set up shop in our new house a few years
ago.
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
Put "everythigng" on mobile bases. On mobile bases you can move any thing
any where and nothing is at a disadvantaged because it is not stationary.
My shop has 2 large tool chests, water heater, DP, 22/44 drum sander, DC,
Router table, 15" planer, mobile trash bag cart, washer & dryer, upright
freezer, 4 drawer file safe, lathe, work bench, a mobile base home for a
Spindle sander, 12" disk sander, mortiser, BS, 50" capacity cabinet saw,
lathe, scrap and clamp bin, 25 gal compressor, wall cabinets,
and
my wife's car.
Bill, you've sure gotten some good advice from the others, and I
don't disagree with anything posted so far. Consider placing the
DC and an air compressor OUTSIDE the garage in a lean-to, giving
you more floor space. 120v plugs should be at least every 3' on
the three sides of the garage. Consider running a 240v on a 20'
or so cord from the ceiling over the TS. Build an outfeed table
on rollers and incorporate storage in it. Consider installing one
wall with both base and overhead cabinets for storage and a long
work surface. Personally, I'd put the TS and outfeed both on
rollers and make the center of the shop a BIG workbench with
storage underneath as well. You also can't have enough good
lighting in a shop- go with multiple 4' flourescents, rather than
long 8' ones to cut down on shadows.
Pressure wash, acid wash and then epoxy coat the floor. Yes,
it'll be slick, but it'll also make cleaning easier. Consider a
floor pickup for the DC, where you can sweep or blow chips into
it.
Consider putting in a mud sink. They're handier than you might
think in a shop if you can afford the space and have a drain
handy. How about an overhead rack, above the opened garage door,
to store wood and "stuff?"
Yes, I received great advise!!! I took 3 pages of notes as I
read --thank you folks for taking the time to share your
knowledge and experience!!!
I did not draw-in the window on the back door, but I really do
think it would be nice if there were a window 5 feet over
on the back wall! I even asked my wife about it 2 weeks ago,
"Hon, how much work do you think it would be to knock out a
hole for a window in the brick wall in the garage?". : )
___________
Roy wrote:
Don't let the kids or SWMBO use any part of the garashop for storage.
They know that floor space is
precious, and will become squatters if allowed. You're the Captain. The
Shop is your Ship. Be
prepared to repel boarders.
____________
Yes, I laughed reading this. I don't know how many times in the 8 months of
our occupancy that I have
had to explain to my wife that the garage is Not for cars! She points up and
down the street pointing out
that "everyone else" on the street is keeping their cars in the garage. I
have to counter--well, if everyone
else jumped off a cliff, would you jump off too? ; ) The guy who moved
in accross the street
two weeks after we did cut out half of a workbench so his wife could park
there (OHH, the sacrilege!!!).
As we moved in 8 months ago, there is still the property of some "squatters"
piled up (not shown in my diagrams : )).
Aye, matey, I'll see to it that it is thrown overboard!
There actually currently are about 8 unsightly, grungy, dirty 1970's kitchen
cabinets up on back wall (previous owner
was a welder, and had boat and RV (so it is flux, soot, transmission fluid,
etc.). I wish to remove and rebuild,
but I am pacing myself.
First major hands-on project will be prepping and epoxying the floor. Come
on spring!--and "Go Colts!!!".
Thanks,
Bill
Without even studying yours... here's my ideas.. and those I "wish I
had done"
-- put the dust/chip producers together on a simple central 1.5hp
collector with 6" s&d pipe -- refitted the TS, jointer, and BS with 6"
dc ports. Another "branch" of the line could accomodate miter
station / planer / other. I grouped them all close together and in
aligment so as to simplify the dust pipe plumbing.
-- outlets along the wall at about 4-foot high (already there -- had
to cut out one single gang box and make it a double (4 outlets) --
would have liked to have them about every 4' apart
-- dedicated 220 outlet for DC
-- 3 220 outlets on same circuilt for TS, Jointer, and TBD
-- dedicated outlets circuit
-- dedicated lights circuit
-- outlets in ceiling to which I just plug standard 4' shop lights --
works very well -- just drive a screw threw the fixture into a ceiling
2x
-- hate the cord web on my ceiling from the previous solution --
should have added 2 more outlets and planned this out better
-- situated the TS near the garage door -- when cutting 4' material,
no problems; when cutting >4' just open the garage door (also this
fits into the DC design well)
-- overhead cabinets along 1 wall - attached to wall with french
cleats -- 3 cabinets
-- open legged workbench under those cabinets -- plan was to put
rolling drawer carts under the open bench -- might scrap that idea and
just build-out the drawer cabinets, sit on leveled base, and put
workbench atop
-- priming all the walls, then painting (do this BEFORE you add a
bunch of stuff!!!!!!!)
-- planning 16' of shelving along 1 wall (ww stuff but also other shop
items -- oil, battery charger, etc.
-- thinking about a low-cost way to cover-up that shelving. thinking
maybe a clear shower curtain -- see-through, but blocks-out dust build-
up
-- sheet goods on roller cart plan-in-the-works
*snip*
My garshop has moisture issues (especially when it's rained recently) and
the TS is positioned under the opening garage door. Sometimes the moving
door drips quite a bit of water on the saw top... not a good thing.
My plans call for moving it back soon, but I'm busy working on other
projects at the moment. (The ice rink has frozen, I've got about a month of
skating left. Gotta get it in now!)
Puckdropper
Put your DC in the corner, it has to be connected via plumbing anyway.
Your drill press being there limits the places you could possibly drill
holes. Figure on around 3' clearance on both sides for the drill press.
That'll allow you to handle holes on a 6' board.
More outlets is a must. If you do that, make sure the base is no lower
than 48" for sheet good storage. (I'm running most my shop tools off a
single extension cord that's plugged in to the tool I need at the moment.
It works, but more outlets would be nice.)
You may also want to build your bench to the same height as the table
saw, so it can be used as an infeed or outfeed table should a project
require it.
Puckdropper
I like to store everything against the wall on wheels. I work in the center
or outside. So I like power by the door and hanging from the ceiling.
Outlets on the wall are a waste for me. I store everything against the
walls. I usually plug in an extension cord and work off that. If the
weather permits I prefer to roll my tools outside to work letting the dust
blow away in the wind. Air compressors are loud. Much prefer to put them
in a small building next to the shop. I like to store stuff in plastic
bins. When I go on location I just grab the bins that I need. I make
rolling cabinets with shelfs to hold the bins. I make their heights to
match my saw. I combine them to make work tables as needed. A tall ceiling
is wonderfull.
As others have pointed out, lots of outlets (every 3-4 feet and along
the ceiling). Wire them as split duplexes, and a separate circuit for
adjacent outlets.
Lots of light. No, even more. and on separate circuits so if one blows
you can still see the spinning blade.
Instead of rolling stands, consider a hover pad (http://www.general.ca /
pg_index/hoverpade.html).
Like Charlie Self said, cars belong outside, that's why they're
painted so well.
Luigi
Bill
More electric outlets. I built my shop abut 6 years ago and just used
the last 220 outlet. I have 6 each. And 10 110v duplex receptacles. 6
to go and I will be out.
My Circuit Breaker panel, 60 amp fed from the service panel. 12 slots.
Actually a 125 amp panel. Homeline Square D. Home Depot. I also have
ceiling outlets for the bench in the middle of my shop. And outdoor
outlets. I actually have a spare circuit from the service panel so I
can shutoff the main shop power and still have some light for repairs
and upgrades. Also an emergency light that comes on if I do trip the
main shop subpanel circuit breaker.
Are you providing for cable, TV, phone, internet and fibre optic?
Be sure and run the conduit and floor boxes for the table saw in the
middle of the floor. Wire in whatever one you need.
And last but most important a cooler for beer. Or a fridge for any
possible shutouts in the event you have to repel domestic invaders?
Bob AZ
"Bob AZ" wrote:
More electric outlets. I built my shop abut 6 years ago and just used
the last 220 outlet. I have 6 each. And 10 110v duplex receptacles. 6
to go and I will be out.
Everyone seems to agree I have insufficient electrical outlets and lighting
(I currently
have 3 florescent lamps with two 4' bulbs each and I know it's not enough).
My electrical box, which has 80 Amp service, has several unused places for
circuit breakers.
It feeds the wires straight up into the attic and they go every which way
from there.
I suppose that i could add a new line to the box and feed in down behind a
wall
to a new box. I suppose I'd have to tear up the drywall to get 3 services
on a wall on one line.
Is the electrical part of this something I can safely try myself if I "read
up" on it (maybe
get it inspected if I had any doubts afterward)? Having the lights and
tools on separate
circuits makes great deal of sense to me!
Bill
Adding my comments to all the others.
I would definitely have some movable light, in addition to the regular
lighting. You will always need a little more light for a project here and
ther. Expcially for finishing work. I pick up the old spring arm lamps at
garage sales for a buck or two. Then then put them in holes I have drilled
around the shop. I also have some clamp type lights as well. I can put
enough light on any area in the shop to cause blindness. (just kidding) The
extra light has made some jobs possible and other jobs easier.
Another big convenience factor for me is to have outlets real close to the
bench. I have installed them under the bench. I have installed them on the
wall just above the benchtop if against the wall. And I have installed
outlet strips onto the bench itself. This allows you to use power tools
without the extension cords. Remember, extension cords can be a safety
hazard. Trip over enough of them and you could get hurt. Besides, if you
leave a bunch of extension cord on the ground long enough, they breed and
multiply. And you will never get your shop back! (It's true, I have seen it
happen) :-)
Cable guys came out here a few years ago to fix a service problem, and while
they were here I got
them to run cable out to the garage. TV is too distracting when working with
power tools that can
seriously eat you if you have a lapse. However, I like using hand tools, and
have no qualms about
using them when the idiot box is on.
My wireless system peters out by the time it gets to the garage. Maybe the new
N standard will be
better when my current router dies, but I don't need a computer out in the shop.
The shop fridge is stocked with the necessary libations to end a good day. I
often break out the
beer to wash down the beef jerky stashed away out there in case I'm placed under
siege. I declare
being under siege a lot on Saturdays during football (rugby with safety
equipment, Jeff) season.
Roy
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