I use a surplus pallet rack I got for free that looks a lot like
this, minus the wire shelves:
Mine is all green, 6 shelf beams (3 shelves). It measures OD
98"W X 30"D X 90"H, had to take 30" off the orig height so it would
stand up in the shop.
In the old barn there are 6" columns 8ft on center with one side of the
driveway where old milking stalls stood having a double row only about
6ft apart. I had some old 1" shaft material so I drilled thru the
columns and inserted shaft sections extending about 2ft. That leaves
enough room to walk along. I then filled in w/ single 2X6 tied to the
mow floor joists overhead and added the intermediate sag support...
But, not everybody has a WWI-era 40x70 (roughly) barn to repurpose,
either... :) The real kicker for it as the shop is the bottom floor
height is only 7ft; there's 30ft headroom to the center beam in the mow
but that would mean arranging for getting everything up there which I'd
love to do but haven't tackled...
Home made is best. You will get what you need, hold more, and it will
I used 2x4 uprights, w/ 2x8s. The 2x8s are cut at an angle for supports.
You could also do 2x4 supports with ply doubler or tripplers.
You then get to layout your own system.
I ran the 2x4 uprights from floor to floor joist above. They are tied in
with carriage bolts to the joists, and held away from the wall a few
inches, and a little foot on the bottom holds the spacing from the wall.
This allows air, or small panels to go behind it.
Mine are 16" on center.
gave me better access to the wood and more storage per square foot.
I wish I could go vertical (9.5 foot ceilings), but 90% of my boards are
10', 12' and 16'.
I made a rack system outside, behind the shop, long enough to hold the
16's. Two tiers, 4' deep with 3"x1/4" "C" channel cross supports on 4'
centers. The outside is covered with corrugated roofing takeoffs from
reroofing the shop. Being on the south side, it gets quite warm (solar
kiln?), but holds an a$$ load of wood (several 1000 bf). The cross
supports are bolted to 2"x2" vertical steel supports on each end, sunk
into concrete piers.
Problems are that the board I want is always on the bottom and the
squirrels are impossible. The 4' spacing has never been a problem with
warping, etc. The vertical supports mean I only have access from the end
so I label each board with species and length. Lots of improvements
could be made, but at least it is no longer stacked up on the shop floor
Next would be a shed, probably 12' high, where the 'shorter' stuff could
be vertical (the only way to do it right!)
And grain pattern-matching for a specific project out of them has just
gone down the drain... :( After that, you're limited to what those
lengths allow which may or may not, actually make the best
presentation/use of the material.
Great points and I used to save pieces for that very fact. But the
majority of the work I do depends more on the design vs. particular
grain in the wood. I had the dilemma that the OP is talking about. I
finally made the decision to not collect the odd pieces for what might
or might not happen in the future. FWIW I still have 90% of those
special boards because no project has been worthy. LOL
Anyway I no longer look for pieces to keep for a possible future project
and simply buy as needed these days and if I need a nice piece I cull
through my suppliers pile.
On a side note, the pantry cabinet I built for our home about 5 years
ago has 22 small drawers and are mated in pairs. The grain is matched
for the pairs. At eye level a pair of those drawers have grain that
looks like the Liberty bell. No one notices that.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.