wood screws?

Naw. it's an Asian knock off shop.

Reply to
Mike G
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Not a lot but it is what McFeely's sells.

If you want pluses for the square drive, they won't cam out and, until you wear it down, the screw kind of locks onto the square driver bit. Really nice for those hard to get at places or overhead.

Reply to
Mike G

Drywall screws slow me down too much, everytime I pick one up I have to put on my reading glasses and hunt down a pair of tweezers to pluck the darn burr out of my finger.

Reply to
KYHighlander

Ok, I got to ask this. Is McFreely's square drive a different size drive than any other square drive? I keep seeing everybody say to get a few bits while they're getting screws. Just wondering if the Roberson?, Robertson?, square drive bits I already have would work.

Reply to
Jerry Gilreath

Had some cousins that built a barn from 'well seasoned' white oak and had to put lard on the nails before they drove them to keep them from just bending flat against the oak beams.

Reply to
KYHighlander

my spell checker always changes McFeely to McNealy don't know why.

Reply to
KYHighlander

Is that where you have been getting your dry wall screws at? LOL

Reply to
Leon

Cause you have not added McFeeleys to your list of words yet.... Nor have I ..but going to right now.

Reply to
Leon

IIRC those should work fine unless you get the "plated non corrosive" screws. Then you would want to order the slightly undersized bits. The slightly undersized bits work much better with those type screws.

Reply to
Leon

McFeely's are standard-sized. If I recall correctly, almost all are #2 with the exception of (small-headed) trim screws, which are #1.

Reply to
Morris Dovey

snip

Ahh to be from Canada, where decent square drive screws (and the bits for them) are as close as the local Home Hardware or Bolt and Nut Supply. There the prices, quality and selection are better than the BORG.=) Then there is an independent hardware store close where it is easy for me to spend an hour looking at all the different fasteners. Or when I'm in the area - a half hour drive - the nearest Lee Valley. I guess that is something of a gloat, take 'em where you can get'em.

For the record, there is a difference between square drive and Robertson. On Robertson, a licensed design, the side walls of the recess slope in slightly towards the bottom, top edge has a slight chamfer to it, and maybe some other stuff I don't know. Square drive are the generic version, biggest difference being the side walls are parallel. As for the bits, they're interchangeable, except perhaps in the case of the #4, which I didn't know existed until I picked some up a couple weeks ago, wound up making do with a large Phillips bit. I have yet to find the driver for it. Posi-drive seem like a decent option, but my experience with them has been limited to when they're included with hardware.

For a good book on the subject try One Good Turn: A Natural History of the Screwdriver and the Screw by Witold Rybczynski. A quick read, interesting for the style of writing as well as the topic.

Cheers, Jeffo

Reply to
Jeffo

That's it exactly - something about the moisture content in the soap. I think it's the same with paste was. Read it in an article - can't remember if it was in Wood or some other mag.

Nick B

Reply to
Nick Bozovich

I read another article - again not sure if Wood or Popular Mechanics, or some other mag., about drywall screws vs. wood screws. If you use drywall screws, you should make sure that they are the ones with the tighter thread pattern and that are not smooth just under the head. The problem is that on those (with the wider pattern and smooth under the head), I read, is that they do not pull the two pieces of wood together evenly, and don't hold evenly (depending on the thickness of the wood). This can cause a loose or weak connection.

The illustration that went with the article made it obivious - but I don't think I have the ability to describe it in words. Ever since then, when I use drywall screws in wood, I make sure it use the tighter thread pattern. FWIW -

Nick B

Reply to
Nick Bozovich

They also have small screws that use "0"

Reply to
RPRESHONG

never had a problem and they counter sink better for me.

Reply to
Young_carpenter

now that sounds like a story.

Reply to
Young_carpenter

Like they said soap has water absorption issues. And it is also a base so can also leave stains in oak, cedar, walnut, etc.

Reply to
Young_carpenter

This is the quality you can expect from China and it's replacing American products and jobs *the price is no bargain either* The only ones who make a killing are executive corporate management. Outsource CEO's!!!

Reply to
Ron

Well I got tired of using #6 and #7 screws and having breaks them on every piece. With furniture you should be using at least a #8 screw un less sealing with some thin of delicate wood. You will probably get tired of them sooner or later or one day see the difference... ;~)

Reply to
Leon

I think you will find that my story will be backed up by most any experienced woodworker in this thread.

Reply to
Leon

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