wood screws

------------------------------------- First things first, the fastener industry moved off shore a long time ago, at least by 1985-1990.

If you are on the east coast, Jamestown Distributors is a good choice.

They are primarily marine oriented so they have a good selection of

I standardized on S/S a long time ago.

If you buy in 100 pc boxes, the premium $ are not a big deal.

I long ago standardized on coarse thread, self tapping sheet metal screws with the appropriate head.

Again, for the most part, use either #8 or #10.

#8 x 1-1/4" are common for attaching 3/4" thick stock.

Have fun.

Lew

Thanks Lew, I'm in the middle. (KC) Does this Jamestown dist. have a web site?

thank again

nver mind. i found them

Good luck finding an exclusive American made screw. For the better style screws driver design seems to make the most difference. Look for at least the square head design and forget about slotted and Phillips.

Mcfeeleys is a good source be does not sell exclusive American. I have been buying from the for so long that I forget how long, 20+++. They stand behind their product.

BTY working with hard woods you want to use a fine thread design.

Steve Barker wrote in news:69adnUI0gsJqLJfTnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

I forget why I started to use their screws, but I do like them:

McFeeley's does, probably Rockler too.

Since you are using oak, keep in mind that you need to use stainless or bronze. Brass is OK but easier to break.

Why would you, "I" need to switch to stainless or bronze for oak? Regular steel has been working out fine for me for the last 30+ years.

I do not have a problem with streaking or staining but then again I do not use a "bar of soap" as a thread lubricant.

I use mostly oak. Use the gold colored and some times the galvinized (dry wall screws) .. I predrill holes and use bees wax for lube. No problins. WW

Sorry, but that is the advice of inexperience. Dry wall screws are good for drywall.

A normal wood screw with any head design other than straight blade or Phillips is far superior.

FWIW I used dry wall screws for years until I learned/understood why the right screw for the job was the better choice. Dry wall screws are simply too light weight and brittle for working with hard woods.

Steve Barker wrote the following:

I use SS screws outdoors or indoors. They don't rust and can be reused. They come with various head drives like square, star and phillips.The only drawback is that they are more expensive than regular screws.

These work well for me. (in different sizes as needed)

Max

Quit using Rockler's screws for critical applications, like joining Face Frames ... simply snapped too damn many in the process.

For general purpose, where if one snaps it's not a big deal, they're OK.

I tend to buy bulk whenever I buy them and, for critical applications, try to get them from a local cabinet supply shop, or tool supplier, as they seem to have the better quality screws in bulk than most national chains, like Rockler, WoodCraft, etc.

FWIW & IME, good places in Houston to buy screws are Circle Saw, CornerStone Hardware and Louis & Co.

That said, in this day and age, that could change tomorrow.

can you elaborate on the reason to use brass or ss? So far i've been using some regular steel screws.

thanks,

You don't. It's the return of the dreaded "oak rust" myth.

Pre-drilling oak or any other "hard" hardwood is a good idea. When considering other typed of screw heads, keep in mind that the driver is probably more important than the screw head. A poor square drive head on a driver bit will round over and lose its grip, nullifying as advantage of the head design. There are Phillips type head/bit combos that are as strip free as square head or star head, because the head and tip match perfectly.

When choosing a square head driver, look for the tip to be hardened steel and not just a die-punched portion of the steel shaft. The ones that appear to be a separate piece and different kind of metal attached to the driver shaft have always held their shape and performed much better for me.

Oak is acidic. In time, it will streak from corrosion of steel fastenings, particularly in a damp or humid environment. The same is true of various other woods, western red cedar beng a common one.

Mr. Myth Man Mike not experiencing it doesn't mean it doesn't happen.

BTW, if you ever need to use brass it is a good idea to use a same size steel screw first to cut the threads, remove it and insert the brass one. Brass is very weak.

Ok, then here's my question. We're talking about screw heads, right? What kind of woodworker is leaving screw-heads exposed on his woodwork? This guy asked about screws he could take in and out, so I assumed it's not for furniture or cabinets.

Yes, I've seen stains in wood from fasteners and my first thought wasn't, "Gee, he should have used SS pins or brads." No, my first thought is, "What kind of hack woodworker leaves exposed fasteners and doesn't fill his nail holes?"

It makes no difference if they are exposed or not.

In both cases there are times when a nail or screw can be exposed and look good.

I agree.

We all have opinions. :-)

I may have missed it, but I've seen nothing in this thread that would lead me to believe anyone was leaving any screw heads exposed. I've built lots of pieces with screws used on the back or bottom, and occasionally on the top of very tall items, that were not visible.