Wood Plug Trim Saw

[anthony diodati]

I thought this weeks tip from WoodworkingTips.com , (woodsmith) was a pretty good Idea, So I thought I'd pass it along.

[Phisherman]

flush-cut saw from Harbour Freight that makes cutting off plugs a snap. After I bought it, I wondered why I didn't buy one long ago.

[Mike at American Sycamore]

Happy woodworking thanks, Mike from American Sycamore

[Dick Durbin]

I have one from Lee Valley that has proven itself to be invaluable. Each Adirondack chair I make has more than 30 plugs.

Dick Durbin

[Dan Parrell]

[roger]

Rhe pull saw is great for trimming plugs an dowels. Used alone, you will most likely scratch adjacent surfaces. I made a very servicable "guard" out of "hobby" sheet brass (0.10") I found at my local Ace Hardware. Sandwich the brass between wood scraps, drill appropriate-sized holes for the plugs, drop over the plug and saw away. I keep mine in a CD case to keep it flat when taking to jobsite. The brass sheet won't harm the pill saw teeth. Try it, works for me.

[Gregg Germain]

anthony diodati wrote: : I thought this weeks tip from WoodworkingTips.com , (woodsmith) was a : pretty good Idea, So I thought I'd pass it along.

:

for posting the tip.

I, myself, prefer to use a chisel. Making sure it slices and doesn't break the plug. On a boat that's 28 feet longI have hundreds of these to do and it's pretty simple to get it down to a minimal sand/plane level with a chisel.

--- Gregg

My woodworking projects:

Replicas of 15th-19th century nautical navigational instruments:

of my 82 year old Herreshoff S-Boat sailboat:

FAQ with photos:

"Improvise, adapt, overcome." [e-mail] Smithsonian Center for Astrophysics Phone: [phone]

[Conan the Librarian]

Yep, I tend to start off by taping around the plug with some of the blue "painter's tape", and then I take a flushcut saw and get it close. After that, it's just a few slicing motions approaching the plug from the outside towards the middle and you're good to go.

The tape prevents scratches; if you're paying attention, you catch yourself as soon as you nick the tape rather than contacting the wood. Also, a crank-neck chisel is nice to have. You can keep the chisel from diving even when you're working in the middle of a wide piece. There the handle on a standard chisel tends to interfere with keeping the back flush to the work.

Chuck Vance

[Dave Fleming]

I cannot guess at the number of plugs or bungs if you are on the East Coast of the US., that I have 'slicked off' Have a 2 inch socket firmer chisel, a Greenlee. that is just for that purpose. Slight radius to cutting edge and first cuts are taken with 'BEVEL DOWN' not 'UP' as is usual practice. This prevents grain tearout or the cut following a downward tending grain pattern in the plug. I was taught a slight oblique angle of attack if at all possible with a bit of a slicing motion. Usually takes but 3 'slicks' to remove plug flush to surface of deck or plank. I do believe that a wide blade does better at this than a narrower one. Tales of a Boatbuilder Apprentice