Rhe pull saw is great for trimming plugs an dowels. Used alone,
you will most likely scratch adjacent surfaces. I made a very
servicable "guard" out of "hobby" sheet brass (0.10") I found at
my local Ace Hardware. Sandwich the brass between wood scraps,
drill appropriate-sized holes for the plugs, drop over the plug
and saw away. I keep mine in a CD case to keep it flat when
taking to jobsite. The brass sheet won't harm the pill saw teeth.
Try it, works for me.
firstname.lastname@example.org (Mike at American Sycamore) wrote in message
: I thought this weeks tip from WoodworkingTips.com , (woodsmith) was a
: pretty good Idea, So I thought I'd pass it along.
Thanks for posting the tip.
I, myself, prefer to use a chisel. Making sure it slices and doesn't
break the plug. On a boat that's 28 feet longI have hundreds of these
to do and it's pretty simple to get it down to a minimal sand/plane
level with a chisel.
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Yep, I tend to start off by taping around the plug with some of the
blue "painter's tape", and then I take a flushcut saw and get it
close. After that, it's just a few slicing motions approaching the
plug from the outside towards the middle and you're good to go.
The tape prevents scratches; if you're paying attention, you catch
yourself as soon as you nick the tape rather than contacting the wood.
Also, a crank-neck chisel is nice to have. You can keep the chisel
from diving even when you're working in the middle of a wide piece.
There the handle on a standard chisel tends to interfere with keeping
the back flush to the work.
I cannot guess at the number of plugs or bungs if you are on the East
Coast of the US., that I have 'slicked off'
Have a 2 inch socket firmer chisel, a Greenlee. that is just for that
purpose. Slight radius to cutting edge and first cuts are taken with
'BEVEL DOWN' not 'UP' as is usual practice.
This prevents grain tearout or the cut following a downward tending
grain pattern in the plug. I was taught a slight oblique angle of
attack if at all possible with a bit of a slicing motion.
Usually takes but 3 'slicks' to remove plug flush to surface of deck
or plank. I do believe that a wide blade does better at this than a
Tales of a Boatbuilder Apprentice
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