Wobble Dado

Now you know what motivated me to get mine.

If I were you, I'd think router as a short term solution.

Lew

I think it's more of a NEG.

Max

I use a Forrest Dado King stacked dado set and it is very nice, and expensive.

If I were to do it again, I'd go with the Freud stacked dado set that uses a "detent dial" on the outer blade to fine tune the width of of the dado with out using shims. About the same price as what I paid for the Forrest set.

stack, but I always seem to be re-shimming for that last RCH. I always thought the RAS was a better machine for cutting dados in narrower boards, like shelving uprights, because the depth approach is so radically different than the dado on a table-saw, which doesn't account for variations in material thickness. Neither does the dado made with a hand-held router account for material thickness differences. Today's plywood is all over the place.

That looks like a nice solution. I usually used my calipers to set the stack, but I always seem to be re-shimming for that last RCH. I always thought the RAS was a better machine for cutting dados in narrower boards, like shelving uprights, because the depth approach is so radically different than the dado on a table-saw, which doesn't account for variations in material thickness. Neither does the dado made with a hand-held router account for material thickness differences. Today's plywood is all over the place.

We, Swingman and I have been testing his set in his shop for 2 or 3 years now, it is pretty much fumble proof.

Wish I'd seen that a year ago when I bought my 8" Freud set. How easy is it with this set to sneak up on an exact size?

That's as good a recommendation as one would need. You're talking about that new-fangled dial/stack thingamajig?

I'm curious as to how it works. Leon? Does it turn some of the chippers into wobblers or does it just separate them a bit emulating a stacked setup with some shims inserted?

Got to agree with you. Several months ago, I donated a RAS to my church camp since it was taking up needed space and got little usage. Now it seems like every project has something that could be done better with the RAS. Wonder if they'd give it back.

Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA

I've posted about this before, but it's been a few years.

No "wobblers", no shims ... "dial-in" widths from

I have only watched Swingman make the adjustment but he writes measurements down so that he can repeat them nonths later. Basically you stack the chippers which BTY are have abnormally wide teeth and add the last outer blade. That last blade has a center screw hub that adjusts in even increments with each detent click. I'd have to say that if the measurement was not quite right you could loosen the arbor nut, grabe the blade and turn the hub one or several more clicks.

That's as good a recommendation as one would need. You're talking about that new-fangled dial/stack thingamajig?

Yeah, It is not cheap but it makes a standard dado set look kinda plain. ;~)

In a previous post I mentioned that the chippers have abnormally wide teeth. The outer adjustable blade simply moves in and or out parallel to the chippers according to how far out the hub is screwed in or out. the wide teeth on the chippers allow the outer blade to move in and or out with out creating a gap.

When I got a stacked dado coupled with a 6" dial caliper, thought I'd just left the stone age.

BTW, it wasn't cheap either, but worth the investiment, IMHO.

Can't imagine what the feeling with this widget would be.

Lew

"Leon" wrote

Are you saying that the chippers teeth overlap one another?

So that the chippers will always take out the groove, while the outside blades are microadjusted for width?

Does that mean the adjustment takes place in the shaft through the center of the dado set?

Yes, just like on a normal carbide tooth dado set however there is a lot of over lap rather than "just enough".

Yes

The flat center dial on the outer blade moves left or right. It is about

That is what "I" still use, I make a test cut and measure the width of the cut with the caliper. then I addd the differnece with shims. It works pretty good but not having to putz with shims and get repeatable results is pretty cool.

Go here,

One thing I figured out in a hurry was to make a "record" piece to document the width and depth of cut.

Found this to be of particular value when doing half laps or similar joints that are material thickness related.

Run all the material for a section (top, sides, whatever) thru the planer before starting the job.

Makes life a lot easier IMHO.

Lew

Lew