Wixey laser crosshair for drill press

Getting these things aligned is _really_ difficult on a drill press with it built in. I can imagine it's an order of magnitude more difficult, if even possible, as an add-on. It's not like an SCMS where the blade can be used as a reference. The laser has to come from outside the center of the drill but each has to be aligned on two axis to the lines track the table.

I have lasers built into my DP and they are one RPITA to get aligned properly. Even then, they're really only useful for finding marks. I'd never use the lasers alone. They're not nearly as useful as the lasers on an SMCS.

For $37.50? Maybe, but don't expect too much.

Thanks for that feedback! I had a gut feel that it was more hype than useful. Since I use setup blocks to position my DP fence, it would drive me crazy to use something that is fiddly and less accurate.

My Delta DP came with one. Unless they have gotten a lot better, I would not advise getting one.

I never ever used it. I felt that a laser on a DP would be as useful as using one on a sander, or hammer. ;~)

You do have to actually drill a hole at some point, let the bit be your pointer.

If you need to pin point a location before hand, use a 1/16" bit to line things up.

Or use a brad-point bit.

That too, but a smaller one. If drilling at an angle the spurs on a larger brad point bit can prevent the point from touching the exact spot, for initial alignment.

I had that issue when using drilling these holes for wine bottle stoppers.

But a smaller bit defeats the purpose of the brad. If you have to drill at an angle, use a Forstner bit. ...or just use a twist drill and be done with it.

The small bit was for alignment only. The spurs on the 1/2" brad point bit cut into the wood, at an angle, very much like a Forstner bit. The bottles being drilled sat in a cradle.

But if the brads touch the wood before the pin, a pilot hole isn't going to do a thing. The pin won't do anything either. Might just as well use a twist drill.

Also, there are only two brads so the bit will tend to "walk". A Forstner but won't "walk". A Forstner is a better choice.

With a 1/2" bit no deflection so no pilot hole needed. A regular bit will not cut as cleanly at the entry point as a brad point bit.

And yet, I had no issue with the bit doing anything but go straight down and into the wood. The spurs were cutting cleanly before the brad point. Like a Forstner bit.

I will say however that I was using the Colt 5 Star brad point bit. Those bits 1/4" and larger, cut through a piece of wood with no backer board and do not tear out on the back side when the bit goes through.

It's the wood, not the bits. Those Festool boards never tear out. ;-)

Since Colts are no longer available, I had to settle for Fisch. I do have a few Colts but sets weren't available even several years ago. I'd still rather use a Forstner for off-axis holes.

I use Lee Valley HSS brad point bits and Freud carbide forstners. I find them to be equal for clean cutting and not walking. Actually the Lee valley bits have a superior point. They are kind of surgical in nature.

Bob

Actually they are available.

I do have Forstner bits but really could tell no difference in making the holes for the wine bottle stopper holders.

All else being equal, steel will take a better edge than carbide. It just won't keep it as long.

"They" are not. The only one listed is a 7/16" and that's the last one left. I don't see a set sold anywhere. At $21.95 a bit, a set of

Hartville tool only lists a 7/16", also. Strange, eh?

Aren't wine bottle stopper holders called "wine bottles"?

Sometimes the wine bottle stopper holder is the person that just made wine bottle unstopped. Right after that it's usually the table, bar or countertop.

The results deeply depend on the material. was doing plunge cuts, through 3/8" thick Ipe, with a 3/8" carbide router bit. These cuts were

I neighbor suggested and brought me a HSS end mill bit of the same size. I used it for the same function and never wore it enough to need to be resharpened or replacement.

In this case comparing new carbide to new HHS end mill bit, the end mill bits stayed sharp an undetermined amount of time longer.

Well, yes they are, I just added that bit to my cart.

Hartville Hardware has 3 different sizes listed. Only 7/16 and 1/2" in stock.

BUT I never bought a set all at once. I bought them individual. And yes they are expensive but they are priced according to size.

I bought several individual of these bits in several sizes from a close out table at Cornerstone Hardware a few years back. IIRC they were marked down 75%. I bought at least one of each size.

When you see them you have to jump on them. ;~)

They are becoming scarce.

That too. ;~)

Is that the steel or the shape of the pointy end? Some of the up/down cut solid-carbide spirals have a pretty decent cutter on the end. Your Shaper should have similar bits.