No, no longer in/on the jig. You still have to be careful to not hit the sides with the cutter portion of the bit before plunging. The same thing you do with the jig.
But once plunged deeper the bearing will be low enough to hit the sides of the dado.
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft.
Me,
I personally use a 1/2" depth of cut bit and often cut to a deeper depth.
I did an airplane display for Volga Neper Airlines and needed to bore a
5/8" hole in the center of the top of a post with a top set at 30 degrees. A DP was way too much trouble.
I drilled a 5/8" hole in a piece of plywood and attached that plywood to the top of the angled top post. I plunged 1/2" deep, removed the plywood and then proceeded to plunge deeper with out the plywood template. Once I reached about 1" deep I followed with a 5/8" brad point bit to reach the desired depth 3~4". The starter hole guided the drill bit so that it went down perpendicular to the surface. I had to think about that one for a while to figure that one out.
A close up of the rod going in perpendicular to the post surface.
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And the posts going through the top of the cabinet and indexing below for leverage. The larger airplane was 60" long and had a 60" wing span. There was considerable stress on the threaded rod holding the models.
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And finally at the convention center. Notice the guy standing in behind the airplane display..
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This display along with the other props were broke down and were loaded into unique cargo shipping containers over and over all over the world. The blue shipping containers seen here in my garage. One was also custom made for the cabinet that I built.
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