When I buy a new blade, or get one sharpened, I'll make a couple of
rips/crosscuts through various scraps that I have on hand (the materials
used most, by default), mark and date them and store them for reference. You
can tell a lot just by judging the quality of past and present cuts with a
blade, and this is simple way to do it.
Excellent question. Today's better blades stay sharp much longer and the
dulling of the blade tends to happen over a long period. This all being
relative to the amount of sawing you do day in and day out. For future
reference, using a freshly sharpened blade or a new blade, make a couple of
sample cuts and keep the samples to compare by. I like to use red oak for
this test. If crosscutting starts to leave more tear out on the back side
of the cut or you notice that the end grain pores are not clean cut and
open, you may need to have your blade sharpened.
Then there is the old stand by method. I keep 2 Forrest WWII blades. When
I suspect a performance drop in a blade, I remove it and mount the other.
If my suspicions are confirmed I leave the comparison blade on the saw and
send the other in to be sharpened. If there is no difference, I remount and
continue to use the original blade and put the fresh one back into storage.
One last thing to note. I have a local sharpener that uses computer
controlled sharpeners that can identify my blade if I return it for
sharpening and they can sharpen to 600 grit. I always thought that they did
a good job. I let them resharpen my Forrest. I used it for about 2 days
and then sent it to Forrest. When the blade came back from Forrest the
results of the cuts were noticeably much better than my local service.
Google a thread from last year on 'sharpening service' for a recommendation
on a good service local to you.
A pro sharpening shop is an excellent resource.
I pay around $20 to sharpen a good, 10" combo blade, dropped off and picked
up at their place of business. In Concord, 20 miles east of Oakland, CA.
If you think that is high, maybe you should buy another blade. Or buy a
good blade and have it sharpened every 5 or 6 years or longer. If you think
a cheap blade is a good deal, you probably are not using it very much.
That's the number I figure ON AVERAGE that I pay, with the 8.5% premium we
Californians pay for the privilege of living here.
Some of the blades I have taken them are 40T combo blades. Some, 60T and
80T cross-cut and finishing blades. More teeth, more $$.
A better quality blade, sharpened well, makes a noticable difference in the
quality of cut, on the same material and the same saw. Considering the
cost of filling the pickup truck at the hardwood supplier, the return on
investing in quality, sharp blades is pretty good.
hello, my name is Amy, I'm looking to buy some basswood and can't find
any sites. I do all kinds of crafts. The problem I'm having is at the
craft stores the basswood rounds are some high in price that I can't
make any money. Do you know where I can get any cypress wood in and
around North Carolina area?
When you spend more time resetting the circuit breaker for the saw than
actually cutting wood it's a good sign your blade needs sharpening.
Buffalo, NY - USA
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