I'm not sure what the fuss in with shellac, it's not a strong finish and can be destroyed with the splash of good scotch, why not go to varnish which will leave a sturdy finish that might last as long as you?
TIA, Josie
I'm not sure what the fuss in with shellac, it's not a strong finish and can be destroyed with the splash of good scotch, why not go to varnish which will leave a sturdy finish that might last as long as you?
TIA, Josie
It looks nice, it is easily repaired if ever needed. Mostly, I like the way it looks and don't need another reason.
Shellac is plenty strong for many applications and I'm not in the habit of dousing everything that I own with hard liquor.
Actually, there are some benefits to using shellac that are attractive to me. One is that the solvent for shellac is simple denatured alcohol. That means that I can use it all I want in my basement shop without fuming the rest of the family out of the house. I also don't have to worry too much about what it's doing to my hands/eyes/lungs.
Another is that I can buy shellac flakes that will keep for a loooong time, while I mix small batches as needed. I'm just a hobbiest and I'd probably end up throwing away alot of unused finish otherwise.
Also, it's easy to repair (so I'm told). And it drys quickly, so multiple coats can be applied rather quickly.
Varnish certainly has its place, but shellac is pretty nice stuff and I'm getting progressively better at applying it.
Have you ever worked with shellac? It's great as a barrier coat, it doesn't have noxious fumes (I can't stand the odor of solvent based polys), it looks great as a top coat, and YES it isn't as durable as varnish, but you don't always need maximum durability for every application.
David
firstjois wrote:
Sun, Oct 24, 2004, 10:57am (EDT-1) snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Joe=A0Wells) says: One is that the solvent for shellac is simple denatured alcohol. That means that I can use it all I want in my basement shop without fuming the rest of the family out of the house. I also don't have to worry too much about what it's doing to my hands/eyes/lungs.
Not tried it myself - yet, but heard you can use everclear too. I'm thinking I'd rather have that around than denatured alcohol. And, no, I don't drink hard liquor anymore - I'm just trying to get away from some of the more toxic things.
JOAT Eagles can soar ... but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.
Well, I couldn't let that just slide by, so I Googled it. I found several sources claiming the same, so it's probably worth a shot. I'd imagine that grain alcohol will be more expensive as it's more heavily taxed, but the trade off is obvious. Hmmm....
Fair enough. How often to you go back and repair?
Josie
Haven't worked with shellac for a long time and posts in this newsgroup group made me think I must have been doing something wrong 'cause I don't remember it being that difficult. Probably doing something wrong! I also used it on small projects which might have made it easy to use. I'd forgotten its use as a barrier coat (thanks) and I've always loved the smell - certainly better than some of the varnishes I've tried. And you are right, maximum durability isn't needed for every project, shellac might save time, too.
Thanks!
Josie
David wrote:
oh, BTW, be sure to use the de-waxed type if you are using it as a barrier coat, so that the topcoats won't have an adhesion problem.
David
firstjois wrote:
Once that I can think of.
I agree. If you can't hold your scotch then you might not oughtta consider shellac.
UA100
LOL I typed in "scotch" because I wasn't sure how to spell "liquor" and "alcohol" is no laughing matter either. The strongest stuff around here is chocolate syrup, but you knew what I meant anyway.
Josie
Hmmmm. Note-to-self: Do NOT attend any parties @ Josie's house...
Here are a few reasons why I've recently been using it in some applications:
- Looks pretty good
- Builds and dries quickly
- Can use different colors of shellac to alter the tone of the piece
- Not as toxic as other finishes
- Not as smelly as other finishes
- Lower spontaneous combustion hazard on rags
- Applied layers melt into each other; no witness lines
- If you screw up the application it can usually be reversed and fixed (very handy for me personally)
- Easy to rub out
Thanks, sounds good, may have to try using it again.
Josie
"firstjois" wrote in news:B6qdnbx2vuV2zOPcRVn- snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com:
You know, you're not a _real_ wRecker, until you have at least _tried_ shellac. ;-)
Google some of the old threads, looking for posts by Paul Radanovic, or O'Deen (or one of his handles). There is much to be learned there, presented very simply.
Patriarch
Tsk, Tsk, I was playing with shellac when you guys were still playing with car engines. The effort went into re-finishing old furniture and replacing shellac with shellac as possible. I'm now (after reading your replies) suspecting that my level of expectation was a lot lower than yours!
O'Deen (or one of his handles). There is much to be learned there, presented very simply.
That's probably what I need to look at, thanks,
Josie
Your kahlua milkshakes must be pretty tame. Actually, straight scotch isn't an effective solvent for shellac. Just ask anyone who's mistakenly tried to use rubbing alcohol (70% or 140 proof) as a solvent.
Everclear, otoh, is quite effective if not really really expensive.
Humbly submtted, O'Deen
p.s. An alcohol-related non-sequiter... Even with a resale license you have to pay sales tax on denatured alcohol, if you're a woodworker using it as a solvent, because it all evaporates and is not part of the final product. Aren't those state boards of equalization a bunch of steenkers?
Shellac is a good material but I question some of your reasons
While I am only adding to the controversy about food-safe finishes, all finishes are said to be safe once cured. I am pesonally not quite convinced of this, however.
Only curing oils like linseed are capable of spontaneous combustion.
Same here.
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