I thought it would be interesting to see just how far you guys are willing to go for workshop safety.The reason? well I read some articles on a board about after searching for a safety fence for my planer and it seems everyone shuts the stable door after the horse has bolted.One guy saws his fingers and then thinks about getting a dustcap and splitter.Dont get me wrong I take risks everytime the cap comes off...but the moment I`ve done doing what I need to do it goes back on.My machines are all to NEN safety levels here in Holland.I still have all my fingers after 23 years in the industry SO what price? heres mine my SO urged me to spend a $1000 on and aigner fence for my moulder (shaper) so I did
LOL, probably not a good example Russel. If my wife thought I needed any woodworking item for any amount of money it wouldn't take any urging for me to be out the door and at the store.
For me, safety is not a price issue. However, I have to understand and be convinced that a real issue exists and there is something significant I can do about it before I will spend money. If reasonable caution is all that's required to be safe, then I won't spend any money. Let me give some examples.
Drill Press - This device can do some damage if you get your shirt tangled in it or don't secure your work with large bits. The answer is simple - roll up your sleeves (or button them tight) and use simple clamps or vice to secure the workpiece. I've seen pictures of big swing away guards for drill presses. I will never own one because I am not convinced I need one.
Table saw - Everyone I know is convinced that a table saw is a dangerous device. Its a balancing act between comfort and control, dust collection, and safety. The three fight each other and every solution has compromises. I used a few commercial and shop built push sticks. I built a zero tolerance throat plate. I wanted to replace the factory blade guard and splitter. We are not blessed with the European Riving knife and guard designs in the states. I've pursued buying the European parts for my saw but to no avail. I was willing to spend $200-$300 for this setup. I recently learned about the Grip-Tite 2000 magnetic featherboard system. I was so excited about this that I gladly spent $135. Every day I use them I'm convinced these are well worth the investment. I no longer need or use old conventional push sticks. I also bought two GRRipper devices. I was not convinced to spend $70 each on them, but when they reached $39 each on sale, I bought both. I like them, but I would not spend the money for two again. I much prefer the Grip-Tite system. I absolutely refuse to spend $200-$400 for an over blade guard system. The reason is that they all have lousy to moderate dust control pickup. Instead I've spent $50 for materials and I am constructing my own.
I agree in general. However, I do plan to make a see through guard for when I'm using my circle cutter. The 6" diameter exposed arm and cutters are just too out in the open for my comfort.
Bob, I have lived in the Nethelands for 12 years now but when I first got here I was always used to english machines and the likes of,over the years I sort of transferred over to the continental style stuff but before then I have always made use of small engineering companies and schools who were more than willing to fabricate stuff to my specs and amazingly the cost was often less than the factory equivalent.So what about getting behind the drawing board and getting the riving knife holder made.if not try here they export to the states and know their stuff Ive used them before with a lot of success.Suva is sort of recognised here as the market leader in dustcaps and riving knives
Could you (or anyone) provide me with a list of top European woodworking equipment suppliers? I witnessed a pretty eye-opening kick-back yesterday and would like to check out other safety options available. Plus, you never know - those furriners' may just know a thing or two.
Thanks. (And no, I haven't done a google search yet, but I will later and will post my results.)
Now that's an interesting approach. I live in an area where there are tons of machine shops. But they all service the chemical, petroleum and oil exploration industries. I don't even amount to the sales tax on their work. Thanks for the tip.
An aquaintance in Ireland sent me photos and excerpts from the Jet manual showing the parts, but I have to find a willing dealer to get them for me. Jet Europe could care less about a small order from the states.
Impressive idea, but it seems to me that its rocket science at its most impractical. I'd rather spend all my money and time on prevention, rather than hoping this gadget will work someday. I think its application would be in a production shop where there are lots of somewhat skilled workers.
I've never bought / made a router circle jig for circles under 6". The circle cutter in the DP works wonderfully, but it is one of those things that scares me so a guard is in order.
BTW, the circle cutter can make holes or wheels depending on how you set it up. It is a useful tool. I don't have any router bits that have a thinner kerf than the DP circle cutter.
Mark, What speed are you turning yours? The instructions say what, 500 rpm? I can't get my dp down past 660 or something like that. But, is your center bit straight? Does it wallow out just a bit? I've tried to line mine up but to no avail.
Hi Bob mail these people and explain your situation(dont worry about doing it in english most people here speak it)Jet Europe wont deal with end users snipped-for-privacy@vdhbv.nl
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few help words to navigate the site Producten =Products (difficult one that) Houtbewerkingsmachines = woodwork machines Merken = makers Tafelcirkelzaag = table saw
its worth the effort and they were pretty friendly with me...I speak dutch so if you dont have any luck let me know I can probably organise it from this end Greets Russell
My Jet floor DP goes all the way down to 200 RPM. ;-) The Sears Craftsman bench DP I had before it would only go down to about 700 RPM, IIRC. The tool does state 500 RPM max.
The center bit wobbles a little but it doesn't seem to affect the accuracy of the hole.
I got an inexpensive set of forstner bits that go up to 2" so I don't have to use the circle cutter for anything 2" or smaller anymore. Got mine from Grizzly, here's a similar set from HF that are even less expensive.
(re: kick-back) The root cause was unsafe technique. He was cutting a piece of luan with the bowed edges up. It rocked, caught, spun it around the top of the blade and shot it square into his lower stomach/upper groin. He went down in a hurry, and it was "only" a piece of luan about 24" square. He's ok now. It makes me want to take another look at leather aprons.
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