What Glue/Adhesive Would Work Best To Do This?????

buck wrote: > I have two 4"x 6"x4' fir pieces that I want to glue together "using clamps > for 24 hrs" and NOT use any screws or nails. My questions are...... Would > Titebond II or III or an equivalent provide a really strong bond or could I > expect them to come apart fairly easy under weight (300 pounds pull)? I am > not really familiar with the newest glues/adhesives. I don't know if glue > bonds are stronger than the wood or not. I am trying to laminate different > size wood together..... but I have to feel somewhat comfortable that they > will not come apart easily.......ie glue 2x4 to a 2x6 to a 4x6 > etc.......don't ask :~)

Epoxy.

After that, everything else is down hill.

Lew

"buck" wrote in news:a91ec$44cab68f$42a7a869$ snipped-for-privacy@msgid.meganewsservers.com:

IF you have good mating surfaces

and

IF the thing you are gluing up isn't going to spend the rest of its life underwater or out in the rain all day

then any of the Titebonds will be more than adequate.

What the hell are you building?

Scott

All depends on how the two pieces are glued together. Glue surface area and grain direction are important. Is there a chance the joint should get wet.

Thanks to all so far.... Good stuff! No, the wood won't be getting wet. Hey Lew.... What kind of epoxy? I will be having to brush it on in large volumes so can't be too expensive. I can get a gallon of Titebond for less than $20. Sorry Scott..... Can't tell you.... LOL. With good adhesives, will the bond break before the wood, or will wood splinter first.... Doug fir in question.

-thanks

Since douglas fir is rather weak in the cross grain direction, my bet is on the wood breaking first. No matter which glue you use. Jim

Any good laminating epoxy will work just fine.

Do a Google for "west+system" which will get you to the Gougeon Brothers site.

MAS & System 3 are other suppliers.

Cost is relative.

$20-$30 worth of epoxy will mean you will sleep well at night.

How big an area is the surface to be glued?

Lew

Thanks Jim and Lew..... Will check out the epoxy too.

-Over and Out!

"buck"

If it is long grain to long grain, titebond will be more than sufficient. If weather or moisture is going to be a problem, I would use polyurethane (Gorilla Glue). If direct contact with siginificant amounts of water, then

Dave

Dave...... It will be long grain and no weather or moisture problem involved....... thanks!

Assuming the pieces being glued have reasonably mating surfaces, any of the TiteBond glues will work just fine. Wood will break before glue line.

About the cheapest you'll find epoxy is around $60/gal. Two very nice things about epoxy...surfaces don't have to be perfect (better if they aren't) and clamping isn't needed. Being viscous, epoxy bridges imperfections well; however, after wetting out both surfaces, I like to mix in some Cabosil (fumed silica) so it is about the consistency of mayonnaise then spread on one surface before weighting or clamping. Actual clamping isn't necessary, just some way to hold the wood in position until the epoxy sets up some hours later. Even masking tape is fine.

You said you didn't want to use screws/nails...is that because you don't want metal in the wood or holes? If the former and you don't use epoxy (I wouldn't), you can always screw them together and take out the screws later. If you are short of clamps another alternative is to make them by cutting off rings from PVC pipe of the appropriate diameter then cutting a slit with hand/band saw in each ring...easy to make dozens of "C" clamps. Not real strong (varies with ring width & diameter) but you can make up for that by using lots of them.