I'm interested in hearing the wreck's opinion on 10/12" sliding
compound miter saw. My criteria areas are: 1) Easy depth of cut
setting - I'm thinking I would be able to plow out dado's with
multiple passes on a long board easier than a dado head on the table
saw. 2) accurate miter/bevel stops. 3) either a high tooth count blade
from factory or a lower price to offset the cost of buying a higher
price. 3) laser would be a plus...but again a lower price offset to
buy a laserKerf if not included. 4) EZ blade change 5) replacable zero
Of course quality and longevity.
I always wonder what the people suggesting a RAS instead of a sliding
compound miter saw are thinking. Do they truly not understand that a miter
saw goes with you where you are working while a RAS stays in one place?
Not in my case. I bought an SCMS for stationary use in my shop. I
have a table saw for ripping, dadoing, and extra-precision
My SCMS is usually used for roughing lumber to length, and crosscuts
when precision beyond a 64'th isn't necessary. I occasionally move
it, but not to the extent that moving a RAS would be a huge problem.
My SCMS is set up with dust hood, board supports, etc...
I suspect there is still some fallout from when Delta (and others?)
portrayed a RAS to be good for planing, drill press, routing, etc..
Sorta like a cheap Do-All machine. Probably were jealous of ShopSmith.
Anyone that ever tried to use one for those purposes (that I have
talked with) were VERY disappointed with the outcome. It didn't last
so that should tell you something. And that back when DeWalt made a
hell of a RAS. My father bought one; last machine he ever bought. I
always attributed it to the RAS good-for- everything salesmanship.
out dado's with multiple passes on a long board easier than a dado
head on the table saw.
None of the SCMS I'm aware of have accurate depth of cut stops.
That's more of a radial arm saw feature. And I wouldn't want
to put any kind of dado blade in a SCMS. Nibbling a dado doesn't
produce a flat bottom well
You do have what you need to check for the accuracy you
want right? A "simple" compound miter saw might be more
appropriate if you want to do really accurate angles etc.
but s SCMS will probably give you adequate results - if
you take the time to set it up right.
offset the cost of buying a higher price.
The Makita 1212 came with a fairly good blade with high tooth
price offset to buy a laserKerf if not included.
Laser will get you just "close". Skip the gimmick
Most of the major brand SCMS are easy
Most of the SCMS come with plastic replaceable inserts
The Makita has a pair of adjustable pieces that you can
set to whatever blade width you want.
Let's see. I recall my working days mantra - "You want
Fast, Good and Cheap - pick two." You've defined conflicting
criteria. Pry open the wallet and pay for the features
you need. The Makita 1212 comes to about $900 when all
the fence height extensions and hold downs/hold ins have
been added. Through in another $100 plus for some infeed
and outfeed tables and you're almost done. Add another
hundred or so for "mircro adjustable" flip stops, a pair
for flat ends and a pair for mitered ends and you're
close to a low end Unisaw. But it'll be a work horse
and, with proper care, do a good job for a long time.
If you find one that meets all of your criteria PLEASE
let us know.
Since I owned good 10" blades I decided to go with a 10" slide. I
chose the Bosch and I'm so far very satisfied with my choice. I would
say that the depth of cut adjustment is fairly easy but I have not
used it with a dado blade.
Compared to the Dewalt I find the angle adjustments to be a notch
better. I have recently purchased an orbital sander and I again
considered all brands but it ended up being a Bosch again.
On Mon, 22 Sep 2003 19:27:08 -0400, Scott Brownell
I have the same saw, I never even knew it had a depth of cut setting.
After I did the ol' RTFM, I'm a bit unconvinced about it's accuracy.
I'm sure it would be fine for roughing a half-lap joint for framing,
but how would it work for fine stuff?
It just takes a couple of minutes to set up. I've used it for both
framing & finish trim applications with excellent results. If I had alot
to do then I'd definitely use a router or dado in the TS but for just a
couple then it's a no-brainer to just use the SCMS. Try it sometime.
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms
up later, the damage remains.
On 22 Sep 2003 07:55:55 -0700, email@example.com (Mark) wrote:
the makita is about the best saw out there. it does have a depth stop but you
can't get really accurate multiple cuts from it. because you can press it a
little harder and cut a bit deeper. but as far as I know it is about the only
saw that has it.
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