Up to me butt in congeleum, congoline, whatever.

Corollary paint damage is only reason I can think of offhand...

In the 1950s, I worked in the auto industry on imported cars from Europe. They all came coated with that greasy stuff. It would take a pile of rags and a gallon of mineral paint thinner called Varsol to get it off. If we were to paint a damaged car, we would then remove all the trim because it was all behind the trim and the solvent in the paint would cause it to leak out ruining the paint job. After removing the trim we would rewash the car with lacquer thinner, because we were repainting it anyway.

Probably due to it causing paint damage. You might want to try an automotive cleaner like "PrepSol" by Dupont or "EZ Klean" by PPG that you can get from an automotive paint supplier. I used EZ Klean on my new TS and it took it right off. Won't harm paint unless you leave it on too long in a puddle. Good luck!

| The blurb that came with it said not to use lacquer thinner to clean | it up....why not?

It might dissolve? ;-)

-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA

I'll feel better tomorrow and be back on solid food by Sunday.

Take it to the high-pressure car wash.

I've uncrated a lot of tools over the years: those today tend to have less cosmoline on them, but those that do have it, have it caked on.

I used kerosene first, followed with WD40, and then wax the daylights out of the table. Boeshield does a nice job there, as does paste floor wax, as we all know (or should) by now.

That is pretty much the schedule I'm following. That WD40 step hadn't occurred to me. That should help. Thanks.

"Robatoy" wrote

In the future, WD40 will also quickly strip off the built up layers of TopCote, paste wax, Bosshield, etc before you give it another protective coat.

And adhesives, inks, marker, etc. That's why I buy it by the gallon and transfer it to a spray bottle. Much cheaper than the aerosol cans.