Mix a tube of graphite (auto supply store lock lube) and some Johnson's
wax...you may need to ehat a blob of the wax in a double boiler.
Use a toothbrush (new or old, your choice) to clean the gears. Use another
toothbrush to apply the lube.
"A politician is an animal which can sit on a fence and yet keep both ears to
the ground." H. L. Mencken
I have a related question...when I clamp down the Unifence on my saw, the
action is stiff; is there a way to lubricate without interfering with the
locking mechanism's grip on the rail? (hope I'm making this clear enough...)
A whole heck of a lot of Johnson's Paste Wax (with a whole heck of a lot of
intermittant cleaning) took care of the problem I had with my Biesemeyer
(Your problem description is very close to the difficulties I experienced.)
Enjoy life and *do* well by it
-- it might well be the only chance you get :-)
10 year supply....
Fill a small baby food jar 3/4's full of Johnson's or Butcher's paste wax
and stir in one very small tube of dry graphite from the auto supply store.
Stir it all together until the solution is graphite black. May need to add
a drop or two of mineral spirits to get a good mixture. If you get to much
mineral spirits mixed in, don't worry - just leave the lid off the jar and
it will evaporate out in a day or two.
As Charlie mentioned, clean off whatever is on them now and then use a
toothbrush (yes even a used one will work) to spread the wax and graphite
mixture on the gears. It beats the dry lubes and doesn't attract dust like
grease does. Yes, dust will lay on top but will fall off when you rotate
the cranks. All you need is enough to coat the bearing surfaces where the
teeth mesh. Any slopped on the sides doesn't do a thing....
In a recent write up in Wood magazine the writer wrote about
a product from ProGold. It's their PG2000 Penetrating
Lubricant. The product is meant to be used over time and
with each application it lasts longer. The Wood writer
Anyways, www.progoldmfr.com looks to be the company's Web
UA100, neither a buyer of or user of the product but will
probably buy some in the near future...
Any teflon carrying "dry" lube available in bicycle shops should do
the trick, as ProGold seems to be one more label on the same can. <G>
I prefer the drip-on versions over the aerosol delivery. These
products do work quite well.
We use this stuff all the time on high end bicycles. Personally I've
probably used ten different brands of it. These lubes work by
carrying a finely ground dry lube mix (graphite, teflon, etc...) in an
evaporative carrier, kind of like a high-tech automotive lock deicer.
Each application leaves more of the dry component behind, which is
what the wood writer noticed. They work best on CLEAN surfaces,
spraying or dripping it on a sawdust encrusted assembly will simply
waste lube. Once the lube dries, less dust will stick, compared
I've also had excellent luck with wax-based chain lubes such as White
Lightning, Pedros Ice Wax and others on machinery. Bike shop versions
of ProGold are known as Pedro's Extra Dry, ProLink, TriFlow Dry Chain
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