These chairs and the matching teak table (I did some posting regarding
stains on this table in the last month or two) are the furniture we have
owned the longest. I will do what it takes to keep it in the family. After a
trip to Denmark in the late 60's we fell in love with teak furniture. We
have a number of pieces but the table and chairs are our oldest pieces. I
recently made a teak entertainment center for a vacation house but that teak
looks very different than our furniture which has a very blonde look. Thanks
for the suggestions Lew.
I can't tell you how much I hate google+. I use Picasa to edit my photos. A
year ago the big brothers at google decided that my photos needed to be
shared with their very lame competitor to Facebook (which I don't use but my
daughter tells me that Facebook is 1000% better than Google+). Supposedly I
could share the photos so anyone could look at them but apparently I failed.
I will try again.
This photo is still not sufficient for definitive advice on a lasting
repair. Need to see the inside joinery, with the seat removed, and a
photo of the seat attached from underneath.
Short of that:
Are there any "corner block" braces to support the leg/seat frame joint?
If not, and depending upon how the seat is attached to the seat frame,
and if there is sufficient room, you might want to consider adding a
corner block, or a variation thereof, as additional structural support
_in conjunction with_ any primary leg/seat frame joint fix you do.
I just fixed a factory made chair broken by a tenant that used a corner
block, as pictured above, along with a bolt through the corner block
that screwed into a threaded insert embedded in the leg sorta like this:
These type of mechanical reinforced joints are common in factory made
chairs these days and are actually much stronger than they appear as
long as the screws are routinely tightened.
If there is room to add something of this nature to the seat frame/leg
area, that, along with even a mediocre joint repair, may give your chair
a new lease on life.
Without a closer examination, that's about the best I can.
Getting old ... I had completely forgotten that I had photographically
documented the above repair, more or less.
Can't tell, from lack of seeing the actual joinery in the chair itself,
if this helps from an idea perspective or not, but nothing ventured...
Which are we looking at????
You say it's loose; can you go ahead and disassemble the chair and thus
have access rework the joinery? If it's loose and has been for a while,
likely it started with the tenon shrinking slightly, then the glue
failure followed by subsequent mechanical compression as the loading
shifts now that it is and has been loose.
Not likely anything will serve long term without some help of refitting
the joint. Even the dowel will, I expect, compress it and elongate the
holes with time under loading if it is left as a loose joint and that's
the only repair.
Don't show the underside; is it such it would be feasible to add the
internal to the seat rail corner blocks?
But, were they mine and I was serious about long-term retention, I'd be
investigating the disassembly route.
Lew Hodgett said the same thing. I have decided to bite the bullet. I have
disassembled enough to see that I was wrong. There is not a mortise and
tenon but dowels. It being summer my work will go slowly but I will report
On Sunday, June 8, 2014 12:37:08 PM UTC-7, Dick Snyder wrote:
GACK! Epoxy has NO tolerance for future disassembly! If this is to be
a long-lived chair, consider instead using hide glue, perhaps thickened
with those microballoons that were mentioned earlier. Your
grandkids will be posting here in a few decades with a bigger problem
if you use epoxy!
Nice work Karl. I appreciate that sequence of repairs that you had to do. My
chairs are not nearly as the bad as the "how the hell did they do that?"
before picture but there are some nice ideas in there/.
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