In my opinion, you have to have two things to align
any contractor saw:
(1) TS-Aligner ttp://www.ts-aligner.com/
Without these two devices, you are in for a very long
day or night.......
You also need the instructions I gave you in a earlier
message from the B&D site.
My Delta CS cuts better than most PM66s, thanks to the PALS
upgrade, so well I've forgetten they're there. Aligned the blade
with a homemade sled-style dial gauge carriage.
Only prob was the inside corner fillets on the PALS brackets required
bit of filing to get the washers to sit dead flat.
Is this a new saw? If so, return it, it's defective. That is assuming
you didn't forget to loosen a bolt or two!!
I don't like the idea of using clamps to get a casting to line up.
Whats actually moving when you use the clamps? Is something bending?
Maybe this is why we hear of broken trunions?
Be careful with it. I've seen cast iron pieces snap, when tightened
down, and not aligned properly.
It's new--still under warranty. The Grizzly folks actually offered to
start a return procedure, at least for the main table with the
trunnion mechanism. That's such a hassle, I'm just trying everything I
can before doing a return.
I missed the beginning of this thread, but if it's a contractor saw check to
be sure the error is the same at 90 and at 45. If not, the two bars
connecting the front and back trunnions are not parallel.
When you get through knocking it about, don't forget to check at full
45 to make sure you don't have interference with something. You don't
want to find that out when you crank over to make a bevel cut. In
particular, there is a rather small zone that clears the insert. The
blade to slot dimension has a small tolerance.
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