trunnion trouble, or, why can't I adjust my tablesaw?

[VeryLargeCorp]

Hi, folks,

Using lots of advice I've found on this group, I set about adjusting my Grizzly contractor tablesaw to correct its extreme blade heel problem--the back of the blade was over to the left at least 1/4 inch more than the front of the blade!

I loosened the two back trunnion bolts and whacked, to no avail.

I loosened one of the front ones--still no better.

I have now loosened all four.

The whole assemble is will move around, but it seems to be moving AROUND a point at the front of the blade. In other words, I can push the back of the blade (via the trunnions below) and move the assembly and the blade back and forth--but it's basically pivoting at the front of the blade.

Just moving the back doesn't make enough of a correction. I need to move the front one way and the back the other, but the front doesn't seem to want to move.

Can anyone offer any advice? Thanks!

DS

[Jim]

This sound seems to show that the front trunnion is frozen in place.

You could try freeing the bolts by the use of a very long cheater. Sometimes bolts can be freed by heating them with a torch, but you might set the whole place on fire if there is any sawdust around. Sometimes, an impact wrench will loosen an otherwise stuck bolt.

Otherwise, you might succeed in getting the bolts out by turning the saw over (to keep things from falling down when you get the bolts loose enough).

Jim

[George Max]

Are you sure you got all the bolts? On my new saw, I noticed it had 3 bolts in each trunnion compared to the two on my previous saw.

[Will]

I had the exact same problem with my Grizzly G0444Z saw as you, being 1/4" off and burning the wood when ripping. I previously posted it in this NG. I had a lot of trouble moving the trunnion. One person on this NG said that he put a large clamp on the back trunnion and brought it in by tightening the clamp. I did this too and was able to bring the blade in. I put a dial guage on the blade and the best I could acheive was it being 2,000th of and inch out. I was informed that was good enough. I been toying with the idea of taking the back trunnion off and elongating the 2 holes so that I could get it dead on. I may call Grizzly and see what they say. One thing you should look at is making sure that your fence is not out of alignment too. Some say the fence should be an 1/8th off in the back and others say it should be dead on. I put mine dead on. Take a look at this site

Ive been thinking of getting this item.

[Stoutman]

Again, How are you checking for alignment? If you are checking for alignment parallel with the miter slot, make sure you use the SAME spot on the blade for the front and back measurement. Mark the blade with a sharpie and take a measurement in the front then spin the blade positioning the sharpie spot in the back and remeasure.

What are you using to make these measurements?

[RayV]

Had a similar problem with my Jet CTS so you are not alone. Make sure you loosen up the tilt wheel from the case that could keep the front from moving.

[VeryLargeCorp]

So, when you "put a clamp on the back trunnion," what exactly did you clamp TO?

I'm glad to hear I'm not the only who has had this problem. I've talked to the folks at Grizzly and they've tried to be helpful, but they're giving me the basic troubleshooting tips that are in the manual, and don't seem to apply when the amount off is SO much.

(I have ordered a set of PALs--thanks for the tip.)

Thanks! ds

[VeryLargeCorp]

Thanks for the suggestions. Because the difference from front to back is so extreme (more than 1/4 inch), I haven't been very precise in my measurements. I'm trying to just get it in the ballpark before bothering with precision.

But to answer your question, I'm measuring with a stick clamped to the miter bar. The stick has a screw in the end. Not the ultimate in precision, I know, but good enough to get a least kinda close, I would hope.

ds

[VeryLargeCorp]

RayV, you may have hit the nail on the head! I was just starting to wonder if I needed to loosen something to allow the movement I need. I think that may be the issue. I'll try it out and report back.

ds

[Dave W]

I had a similar problem with at Powermatic Artisan saw; I never was able to get it aligned properly. I sold it and bought a General (Canadian) cabinet saw....what a nice piece of machinery. Dave

[Will]

I took a pipe clamp and put one end on the end of the trunnion and the other end on the on the side of the saw cabinet and tightened it .

[Stoutman]

If you really serious about getting your table saw aligned. Give this a try:

No affiliation. Just a satisfied customer.

[Anonymous]

I don't think his problen is being able to measure how far off it is .. .. he can't move it enough to get it in proper alignment .. .. how will a TS-Aligner help him with that ??

[Pat Barber]

In my opinion, you have to have two things to align any contractor saw:

(1) TS-Aligner ttp://

(2) these two devices, you are in for a very long day or night.......

You also need the instructions I gave you in a earlier message from the B&D site.

VeryLargeCorp wrote:

[sailor]

Is this a new saw? If so, return it, it's defective. That is assuming you didn't forget to loosen a bolt or two!! I don't like the idea of using clamps to get a casting to line up. Whats actually moving when you use the clamps? Is something bending? Maybe this is why we hear of broken trunions? Be careful with it. I've seen cast iron pieces snap, when tightened down, and not aligned properly.

[Frank Boettcher]

When you get through knocking it about, don't forget to check at full

45 to make sure you don't have interference with something. You don't want to find that out when you crank over to make a bevel cut. In particular, there is a rather small zone that clears the insert. The blade to slot dimension has a small tolerance.

Frank

[VeryLargeCorp]

It's new--still under warranty. The Grizzly folks actually offered to start a return procedure, at least for the main table with the trunnion mechanism. That's such a hassle, I'm just trying everything I can before doing a return.

DS

[Father Haskell]

upgrade, so well I've forgetten they're there. Aligned the blade with a homemade sled-style dial gauge carriage.

Only prob was the inside corner fillets on the PALS brackets required a bit of filing to get the washers to sit dead flat.

[Larry Blanchard]

I missed the beginning of this thread, but if it's a contractor saw check to be sure the error is the same at 90 and at 45. If not, the two bars connecting the front and back trunnions are not parallel.

[Stoutman]

Once he is able to move it, how is he going to align it? (the stick on a miter gauge technique gets you close; the TS-Aligner gets you there all the way!).